알렉산더 맥퀸 패션에 나타난 유기적 디자인 특성

Abstract

무한한 창작의 근원지로 볼 수 있는 자연을 통해 인간은 많은 영향을 받아왔다. 과거에서부터 발생해온 여러 예술행위 및 운동은 자연을 통해 다양한 디자인의 흐름으로 이어져 왔으며, 이는 시대에 따라 인간의 욕구 및 의도를 통해 지금껏 전해지는 새로운 감성의 디자인 해석으로 이끌어 왔다. 자연에서 이어진 해석으로 조화로움을 강조하는 디자인은 다양한 분야에서 접목되어 현대 디자인에서 창의적인 결과물로써 존재한다. 유기체에 대한 표현은 자연스럽게 인간을 통하여 보여져왔다. 이와 더불어 현대 산업 발전으로 인한 환경과의 문제 및 비인간화적인 사회의 전개에서 벗어나 인간과 자연이 함께 공존하는 자연과의 유기적 관계에 바탕을 둔다.

본 연구의 목적은 알렉산더 맥퀸의 패션 작품을 통하여 현대 패션에서 나타난 유기적 표현특성 및 방법을 이해하고 분석하여 유기적 디자인 형태를 이해하고 활용할 수 있는 다양한 자료를 제시하는데 있다. 연구방법으로 건축과 제품 디자인의 선행연구 및 문헌연구 분석을 통하여 유기적 디자인 표현 방법 및 특성의 기준을 분류하고 이를 바탕으로 알렉산더 맥퀸의 패션에서 나타난 특성을 분석하고자 하였다. 분석 자료는 전문 패션 정보 사이트인 ‘보그 코리아’와 US ‘Vogue.com'의 자료, 인터넷 사진자료 및 서적을 활용하였다. 알렉산더 맥퀸(Alexander Mcqueen)이 실제적으로 디자인을 진행하였던 1995년부터 2010년까지의 31개 시즌 컬렉션을 범위로 선정하였다. 자료 분석은 시각적으로 나타난 유기적 디자인의 사례를 기준으로 분석하였다.

선행연구 분석 기준을 바탕으로 나타난 알렉산더 맥퀸 패션의 유기적 디자인의 표현 특성은 자연의 형태와 구조를 활용한 형태적 특성, 유기체 형태 응용을 통한 추상성, 유기체의 형성과정 표현을 통한 연속성, 자연소재와 지역·문화적 특성을 활용한 구조적 특성, 주관적 사고를 통한 상징성으로 분류할 수 있었으며 내용은 다음과 같다.

첫째, 맥퀸의 패션에서 나타난 특성 중 자연의 형태와 구조를 활용한 형태적 특성은 동·식물 및 무형체를 오브제로써 사용하여 유기적 특성을 나타낸 것이다. 이 속에는 인간 또한 모티브의 대상으로 속하며 직접적이고 사실적인 묘사를 추구하는 것으로 나타났다. 물체의 구조 혹은 모양새를 의복의 바탕 혹은 외형의 모습으로 표현하는 것을 특성으로 설명할 수 있다.

둘째, 유기체 형태 응용을 통한 추상성은 나타내고자 하는 대상을 추상적으로 묘사하는 것을 의미한다. 인체의 구조적인 모습을 부분적으로 변형하여 특징을 나타내거나, 자연물의 표면을 특징으로 삼아 시각화하여 설명한다. 맥퀸은 자연물이 가지는 생물의 특성을 유추하여 표현하거나 동·식물의 패턴을 이용해 추상적인 실루엣을 디자인에 활용하였음을 알 수 있었다.

셋째, 유기체의 형성과정 표현을 통한 연속성은 유기체의 점진적 성장에 따른 표현특성으로 자연물의 내부적인 요소가 외부적인 형태에 영향을 미치는 개념을 바탕으로 디자인이 재해석된 것이다. 세포 분열과 같은 요소들로 기하학적인 무늬 혹은 형태 등을 이루는 것을 말한다. 물체가 가지는 성질과 특성에 따라 자라나는 모양새가 다른 것처럼 그 질서 속에서 나타나는 특징을 유기적 패션으로 전개한 것을 알 수 있다.

넷째, 자연소재와 지역·문화적 특성을 활용한 구조성이 표현 특성은 자연 요소를 활용한 표현 및 재료의 물리적 특성을 디자인 요소로 활용한 디자인으로 나타났다. 자연적 소재의 활용 측면을 통해 디자인이 자연에 예속되는 것으로 자연성을 표현한 것이다. 맥퀸의 패션디자인에는 자연 요소 활용과 더불어 지역 및 문화적 특성을 적용하여 전통적인 요소를 고려한 디자인으로 새로운 모티브의 소재로 삼아 표현한 것을 알 수 있다.

다섯째, 주관적 사고를 통한 상징성은 표현하고자 하는 대상이 자연에서 나타나는 요소인 것으로 환경적 요소와 더불어 창조적 생명체도 속한다. 창의성을 바탕으로 표현하는 패션 디자인에서 이러한 특성이 가장 잘 드러났다. 자연적 요소의 활용은 맥퀸의 패션에서 가장 큰 부분을 차지하는 것으로 동·식물의 부분 조합으로 새로운 형태를 창조해내거나 새로운 생명체를 만드는 등 창의적인 디자인을 추구하는 것으로 나타났다.

이와 같이 알렉산더 맥퀸의 패션에서는 인체의 활용과 자연 요소의 소재적 활용 및 창조적인 형태 추구를 통하여 상징적인 디자인 표현 등 유기적 디자인 요소가 뚜렷하게 나타난 것을 확인 할 수 있었다. 본 연구를 바탕으로 향후 패션에서 활용될 수 있는 유기적 디자인이 다양한 방향과 영역으로 발전할 수 있는 계기가 될 수 있을 것으로 기대한다. |Nature has been an influence on human beings to an limitless extent, and the organic design based on nature has been expressed in various fields by different forms from the past art movement to the times. Nature is the source of everything and it can be seen as an infinite form of everything. In the environment created from nature, it appears that humans have created constantly to satisfy their needs in accordance with their lives, and it was expressed as maintaining a close relationship with nature on the basis of their creations.

The purpose of this study is to understand and analyze the organic forms, expressions and characteristics of modern fashion through Alexander McQueen's fashion works, and present various materials to understand and utilize the organic design forms. As the research method, the criteria of organic design expression and characteristics were classified through the analysis of the precedent research and literature review about architecture and product design, and based on this, the organic design characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion collection were analyzed. The organic design expression characteristics of Alexander McQueen fashion, which were based on the criteria for analysis of precedent research could be classified as morphological characteristics using natural forms and structures, abstractness through application of organic forms, continuity through formation process of organisms, structural characteristics using natural materials and regional, cultural properties, and symbolism through subjective thinking.

First, among the characteristics of McQueen's fashion, the morphological characteristics of using nature's forms and structures are used as objet to represent organic characteristics. Also, it turns out that humans also one of those motifs and seek direct and realistic depictions. Its characteristics can be explained as expressing the structure or shape of an object as the basis or appearance of clothes.

Second, abstraction through the application of organic forms means an abstract representation of the object being represented. It is explained by partially modifying the structural features of the human body to show characteristics, or visualizing it with the surface of the natural object. McQueen was able to use abstract silhouettes in his designs by either analogizing the characteristics of natural object as creature or using patterns of animals and plants.

Third, continuity through the expression of the formation process of organisms is characteristic of expression of the gradual growth of organisms, which took reinterpretation based on the concept that the internal elements of natural objects affect the external form. It refers to the formation of geometric patterns or forms of elements such as cell division. Just as growth of object differs according to its properties and characteristics, it can be seen that the characteristics of its order have been developed into organic fashion.

Fourth, the structure using natural materials and regional and cultural characteristics was shown by design using physical characteristics of expression and materials using natural elements as design elements. It is an expression of nature through the use of natural materials, as the design is subordinated to nature. McQueen’s fashion design is characterized by the application of local and cultural properties along with the use of natural elements, and the expression of the design considering the traditional elements as a new motif material.

Fifth, the symbolism through subjective thinking is the element of nature that the object to be expressed is the element that appears in nature, and it also includes creative organism along with environmental factors. These characteristics have been best demonstrated in fashion designs that express themselves based on creativity. The use of natural elements is the largest part of McQueen’s fashion, and it has been shown as it seeks creative designs such as creating new forms or creating new organisms with partial combinations of animals and plants.

As such, Alexander McQueen's fashion clearly shows organic design elements, such as symbolic design expression, through the use of the human body, material utilization of natural elements, and pursuit of creative forms. Based on this research, it is expected that organic design that can be used in fashion in the future can serve as an opportunity to develop into various directions and area.; Nature has been an influence on human beings to an limitless extent, and the organic design based on nature has been expressed in various fields by different forms from the past art movement to the times. Nature is the source of everything and it can be seen as an infinite form of everything. In the environment created from nature, it appears that humans have created constantly to satisfy their needs in accordance with their lives, and it was expressed as maintaining a close relationship with nature on the basis of their creations.

The purpose of this study is to understand and analyze the organic forms, expressions and characteristics of modern fashion through Alexander McQueen's fashion works, and present various materials to understand and utilize the organic design forms. As the research method, the criteria of organic design expression and characteristics were classified through the analysis of the precedent research and literature review about architecture and product design, and based on this, the organic design characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion collection were analyzed. The organic design expression characteristics of Alexander McQueen fashion, which were based on the criteria for analysis of precedent research could be classified as morphological characteristics using natural forms and structures, abstractness through application of organic forms, continuity through formation process of organisms, structural characteristics using natural materials and regional, cultural properties, and symbolism through subjective thinking.

First, among the characteristics of McQueen's fashion, the morphological characteristics of using nature's forms and structures are used as objet to represent organic characteristics. Also, it turns out that humans also one of those motifs and seek direct and realistic depictions. Its characteristics can be explained as expressing the structure or shape of an object as the basis or appearance of clothes.

Second, abstraction through the application of organic forms means an abstract representation of the object being represented. It is explained by partially modifying the structural features of the human body to show characteristics, or visualizing it with the surface of the natural object. McQueen was able to use abstract silhouettes in his designs by either analogizing the characteristics of natural object as creature or using patterns of animals and plants.

Third, continuity through the expression of the formation process of organisms is characteristic of expression of the gradual growth of organisms, which took reinterpretation based on the concept that the internal elements of natural objects affect the external form. It refers to the formation of geometric patterns or forms of elements such as cell division. Just as growth of object differs according to its properties and characteristics, it can be seen that the characteristics of its order have been developed into organic fashion.

Fourth, the structure using natural materials and regional and cultural characteristics was shown by design using physical characteristics of expression and materials using natural elements as design elements. It is an expression of nature through the use of natural materials, as the design is subordinated to nature. McQueen’s fashion design is characterized by the application of local and cultural properties along with the use of natural elements, and the expression of the design considering the traditional elements as a new motif material.

Fifth, the symbolism through subjective thinking is the element of nature that the object to be expressed is the element that appears in nature, and it also includes creative organism along with environmental factors. These characteristics have been best demonstrated in fashion designs that express themselves based on creativity. The use of natural elements is the largest part of McQueen’s fashion, and it has been shown as it seeks creative designs such as creating new forms or creating new organisms with partial combinations of animals and plants.

As such, Alexander McQueen's fashion clearly shows organic design elements, such as symbolic design expression, through the use of the human body, material utilization of natural elements, and pursuit of creative forms. Based on this research, it is expected that organic design that can be used in fashion in the future can serve as an opportunity to develop into various directions and area.