현대 남성 패션에 나타난 해체주의 ‘차연’적 표현 특성

Abstract

This study is aimed at applying the philosophical concept of “différance” to contemporary men’s fashion design, which could effectively show the shift in thinking. For the study method, the author examined the theoretical background of deconstruction and prepared the standard of analysis by organizing the concept of “différance,” which exists at the center of philosophy. This study selected the three most popular brands: Maison Margiela, Comme des Garcons, and Yohji Yamamoto. The results are as follows. First, there is expression of perpetual reservation emphasizing time. This includes texture, patchworks, hems with ladder, and exposure of seam that expresses the trace of time flow and delayed delivery of immediate meaning, and the expression creates delay between major and minor and leads to consistent role exchange. Second, the trace of blank that emphasizes the space gives a visual sense of weight on spares with the intentionally granted space, as well as the space that is the trace of trace and creates a sense of depth through the direction of empty space. Third, the space created in the process of wearing cloth is visualized, the structure of clothing is deconstructed, and the movement from the process recomposes the shape of space and expands the definition that enables expansion of time and space. Fourth, the undetermined relationship expresses the border of time and space visually and deconstructs time and space. The approaches are mostly constructive, demonstrating an avant-garde form of clothes-wearing to show the non-form or imbalance condition.