알렉산더 왕 컬렉션에 나타난 애슬레저 룩의 특성

Abstract

건강에 대한 관심과 여가 시간의 증가로 현대인과 운동은 밀접한 관계를 형성하게 되었다. 특히 여성들의 운동 참여율이 높아짐에 따라 디자인성이 가미된 스포츠웨어의 수요가 높아졌다. 이러한 현상들로 인해 애슬레저 룩(Athelisure Look) 열풍이 불게 되었는데, 애슬레저 룩은 기존의 스포츠웨어와는 다르게 일상복과 운동복의 경계가 허물어진 형태로 소비자들의 구매 욕구를 자극시켰다. 애슬레저 룩이 하나의 트렌드로 떠오르게 되면서, 이에 맞춰 패션 시장에서는 애슬레저 라인을 런칭하거나 강화시키는 등 다양한 전략을 세우고 있다. 이에 본 연구의 목적은 애슬레저 룩의 대표적인 디자이너 알렉산더 왕(Alexander Wang) 컬렉션을 분석하여 컬렉션에 나타난 애슬레저 룩의 특성을 분석하고 자료화하여 다양한 패션 디자인의 방향을 제시하는데 있다. 연구를 위한 방법으로는, 국내외 전문서적 및 문헌자료, 학술지, 매스 미디어 등을 통해 애슬레저 룩의 정의 및 등장배경을 파악하고, 다양한 브랜드에서 나타나는 애슬레저 룩의 현황을 알아보며, 이를 바탕으로 알렉산더 왕 컬렉션에 나타난 애슬레저 룩의 디자인 특성과 표현 특성을 도출하였다. 알렉산더 왕의 컬렉션 자료의 범위는 Alexander Wang 컬렉션과 세컨드 브랜드이자 캐주얼라인인 T by Alexander Wang 컬렉션의 여성복 컬렉션만을 대상으로 하고, 연구 시점에 따라 Alexander Wang 컬렉션은 2007 F/W부터 2017 S/S 까지, T by Alexander Wang 컬렉션은 2011 S/S부터 2016 F/W 까지를 범위로 하였다. 수집된 사진 자료 446장을 바탕으로 전문가 집단의 검증을 실시하였다. 알렉산더 왕 컬렉션에 나타난 디자인 특성을 정리하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 알렉산더 왕 컬렉션에 나타난 애슬레저 룩의 실루엣은 스포티룩의 특성상 몸의 라인이 나타나는 스트레이트 실루엣과 아워 글래스 실루엣이 많이 나타났고, 부피감이 큰 벌크 실루엣이 가장 적게 나타났다. 몸의 라인을 드러내어 여성적이고 관능적인 이미지를 표현했고, 밀착되는 실루엣으로 활동성이 좋은 스타일로 나타났다. 아이템들은 활용성과 실용성이 높은 아이템들이 주로 나타났다. 애슬레저 룩 특성상 신축성이 좋은 소재나 스포티 아이템인 후드, 트레이닝 팬츠 등이 나타났다. 둘째, 알렉산더 왕 컬렉션에 나타난 애슬레저 룩 컬러는 주조색을 중심으로 무채색과 유채색으로 나누어 분석해 본 결과 무채색이 높은 비율로 나타났다. 무채색의 비율이 높은 만큼 세련된 느낌의 도시적인 애슬레저 룩으로 표현 되었고, 정적인 무채색 컬러와 단순하지 않은 디자인으로 조화를 이루었다. 셋째, 알렉산더 왕 컬렉션에 나타난 애슬레저 룩의 문양은 문양의 유, 무를 살펴본 결과 알렉산더 왕 컬렉션에 나타난 애슬레저 룩에서는 문양이 없는 솔리드 형태의 원단이 많이 사용되었는데, 이는 무채색 컬러가 높은 비율로 나온 것과 마찬가지로 알렉산더 왕은 문양이 없는 원단을 사용해 심플한 스타일의 애슬레저 룩을 표현했다. 알렉산더 왕 컬렉션에 나타난 애슬레저 룩의 표현 특성은 역동성(39.46%), 의외성(34.30%), 관능성(14.57%), 저항성(11.65%)의 순으로 나타났으며 그 특성을 정리하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 알렉산더 왕 컬렉션에서 나타난 애슬레저 룩의 관능성은 신체의 라인을 드러내고 섹시함과 건강미를 강조했다. 신체의 직접적, 간접적 노출로 근육을 그대로 드러내고, 특정 부위를 노출시켜 건강미를 부각시켰다. 둘째, 역동성은 가장 많은 비율로 나타났는데, 활동하기 편한 넉넉한 사이즈의 아이템이나 신축성이 좋은 소재를 사용하여 남녀의 성적 특징을 배제한 중성적 스타일로 나타났고, 알렉산더 왕의 캐쥬얼 라인인 T By Alexander Wang 컬렉션에서 높은 비율로 나타났다. 셋째, 저항성은 공격적이고 거친 장식을 사용한 스타일로 나타났고, 알렉산더 왕의 시그니처 컬러인 블랙의 비율이 높게 나와 블랙패션으로서의 저항성이 나타났다. 넷째, 알렉산더 왕 컬렉션에 나타난 애슬레저 룩의 의외성은 다양한 소재의 믹스매치, 시각적인 재미를 통한 유희적 표현 등으로 독특한 분위기가 연출되어 일상복과 스포츠웨어의 조화를 이루었다. 본 연구에서는 애슬레저 룩의 개념을 확립하고, 애슬레저 룩의 대표 디자이너인 알렉산더 왕의 여성복 컬렉션을 중심으로 애슬레저 룩에서 나타나는 특성을 고찰하였다. 현재 다양한 애슬레저 룩 현황이 나타나고 있지만, 디자인 개발이나 여성복만을 중심으로 한 연구만 한정적으로 나타나고 있어 남성복 분야의 애슬레저 룩에 대한 후속연구가 이루어지기를 기대한다.|With increased spare time and interest in health, exercise is now very importantly regarded by contemporaries. Particularly, with the increase of women doing exercise, there is higher demand for sportswear adding design features. Along with these phenomena, the fever of Athleisure Look has emerged. Athleisure Look is a form that has torn down the border between everyday wear and sportswear unlike previous sportswear, and it has stimulated consumers’ purchase needs. As Athleisure Look has arisen as a trend, the fashion market has been establishing various strategies like launching or solidifying the Athleisure line. The purpose of this study is to analyze designer Alexander Wang’s collections representing Athleisure Look, examine the characteristics of Athleisure Look found in those collections, and suggest multilateral directions for fashion design based on the data. About the method of this study, this researcher examined both Korean and foreign technical publications, literatures, journals, and mass media to define Athleisure Look and understand the background of its emergence, investigated the current status of Athleisure Look found in different brands, and figured out the design characteristics and representation characteristics of Athleisure Look found in Alexander Wang’s collections based on that. Regarding the range of Alexander Wang’s collections, this author dealt with only the women's clothing collection of T by Alexander Wang, that is, Alexander Wang’s collection, second brand, and casual line. Concerning the period of this research, Alexander Wang’s collections are from 2007 F/W until 2017 S/S, and T by Alexander Wang’s collections are from 2011 S/S until 2016 F/W. 446 photos collected went through verification by an expert group. The design characteristics of Athleisure Look found in Alexander Wang’s collections are analyzed with the following elements: silhouettes, items, colors, and patterns. About silhouettes, like the characteristics of Athleisure Look, straight silhouettes or hourglass silhouettes exhibiting the lines of the body often appear. About items, most of them are equipped with high practicality and utility. About colors, achromatic colors are often used. Lastly, about patterns, solid fabric with no patterns on often appears. This shows the characteristics of Alexander Wang’s Athleisure Look that is urban and contemporary. The representation characteristics of Athleisure Look found in Alexander Wang’s collections are found to be dynamism (39.46%), unexpectedness (34.30%), sensuality (14.57%), and resistance (11.65%) in order, and the characteristics can be summed up as below: First, regarding the sensuality of Athleisure Look found in Alexander Wang’s collections, it exhibits the lines of the body and highlights sexiness and healthy beauty. With either direct or indirect body exposure, muscles are exhibited plainly, and certain body parts are exposed to highlight healthy beauty. Second, dynamism appears the most. Applying items with a comfortable or loose size or materials that are flexible to enhance activity, a neutral style appears excluding the sexual characteristics of both males and females. It appears very often in Alexander Wang’s casual line, T By Alexander Wang. Third, resistance appears as a style using aggressive and rough decorations. Alexander Wang’s signature color, black, appears often, and it shows resistance as black fashion. Fourth, the unexpectedness of Athleisure Look found in Alexander Wang’s collections creates its own uniqueness with playful expressions made by various materials’ mix match or visual funs, and it is harmonized with everyday wear or sportswear. This study has established the concept of Athleisure Look and considered the characteristics of Athleisure Look found in Athleisure Look’s representative designer, Alexander Wang’s women's clothing collection. Although Athleisure Look appears diversely nowadays, research only deals with design development or women's clothing limitedly. Therefore, it is expected that there will be follow-up research on Athleisure Look in the area of men’s wear.; With increased spare time and interest in health, exercise is now very importantly regarded by contemporaries. Particularly, with the increase of women doing exercise, there is higher demand for sportswear adding design features. Along with these phenomena, the fever of Athleisure Look has emerged. Athleisure Look is a form that has torn down the border between everyday wear and sportswear unlike previous sportswear, and it has stimulated consumers’ purchase needs. As Athleisure Look has arisen as a trend, the fashion market has been establishing various strategies like launching or solidifying the Athleisure line. The purpose of this study is to analyze designer Alexander Wang’s collections representing Athleisure Look, examine the characteristics of Athleisure Look found in those collections, and suggest multilateral directions for fashion design based on the data. About the method of this study, this researcher examined both Korean and foreign technical publications, literatures, journals, and mass media to define Athleisure Look and understand the background of its emergence, investigated the current status of Athleisure Look found in different brands, and figured out the design characteristics and representation characteristics of Athleisure Look found in Alexander Wang’s collections based on that. Regarding the range of Alexander Wang’s collections, this author dealt with only the women's clothing collection of T by Alexander Wang, that is, Alexander Wang’s collection, second brand, and casual line. Concerning the period of this research, Alexander Wang’s collections are from 2007 F/W until 2017 S/S, and T by Alexander Wang’s collections are from 2011 S/S until 2016 F/W. 446 photos collected went through verification by an expert group. The design characteristics of Athleisure Look found in Alexander Wang’s collections are analyzed with the following elements: silhouettes, items, colors, and patterns. About silhouettes, like the characteristics of Athleisure Look, straight silhouettes or hourglass silhouettes exhibiting the lines of the body often appear. About items, most of them are equipped with high practicality and utility. About colors, achromatic colors are often used. Lastly, about patterns, solid fabric with no patterns on often appears. This shows the characteristics of Alexander Wang’s Athleisure Look that is urban and contemporary. The representation characteristics of Athleisure Look found in Alexander Wang’s collections are found to be dynamism (39.46%), unexpectedness (34.30%), sensuality (14.57%), and resistance (11.65%) in order, and the characteristics can be summed up as below: First, regarding the sensuality of Athleisure Look found in Alexander Wang’s collections, it exhibits the lines of the body and highlights sexiness and healthy beauty. With either direct or indirect body exposure, muscles are exhibited plainly, and certain body parts are exposed to highlight healthy beauty. Second, dynamism appears the most. Applying items with a comfortable or loose size or materials that are flexible to enhance activity, a neutral style appears excluding the sexual characteristics of both males and females. It appears very often in Alexander Wang’s casual line, T By Alexander Wang. Third, resistance appears as a style using aggressive and rough decorations. Alexander Wang’s signature color, black, appears often, and it shows resistance as black fashion. Fourth, the unexpectedness of Athleisure Look found in Alexander Wang’s collections creates its own uniqueness with playful expressions made by various materials’ mix match or visual funs, and it is harmonized with everyday wear or sportswear. This study has established the concept of Athleisure Look and considered the characteristics of Athleisure Look found in Athleisure Look’s representative designer, Alexander Wang’s women's clothing collection. Although Athleisure Look appears diversely nowadays, research only deals with design development or women's clothing limitedly. Therefore, it is expected that there will be follow-up research on Athleisure Look in the area of men’s wear.