여성 승마복의 남성복 아이템 도입에 관한 연구

Abstract

By researching Western equestrian clothing, this study investigated the process in which styles of menswear are introduced into women’s sportswear. In addition to women’s equestrian clothing shown in paintings and illustrations kept in overseas museums, this study also analyzed books addressing 200 years of Western dress style history, from the late 17th century to the 19th century. The analysis data present the design characteristics of women’s equestrian clothing according to different periods. A total of 21 works were used as research data: two from periods prior to the 17th century, three from the 17th century, ten from the 18th century, and six from the 19th century. The research results show that items of trendy menswear were commonly used in women’s equestrian clothing during the late 17th century - to be specific, in all forms of clothing worn on the upper body, including coat and cravat, tricomhat, and accessories. Women’s equestrian clothing after the 18th century took the form of menswear. However, the uniform was also generally worn with a fitted, tailored redingote on top of the robe, along with pants. In the 19th century, women’s equestrian clothing became longer in length, like men’s styles. The uniform gradually lost volume, and the jacket became shorter and narrower. In addition, the drawers were replaced with pants that came down to the ankles, which were similar to men’s trousers. Breeches also became knee - length, thus following the style of menswear. These results show that women’s equestrian clothing, worn during horseback riding, a sport previously enjoyed by Western aristocrats, were similar to what men wore. Also, in contrast to the distinct differences seen between men’s and women’s daily clothing, the equestrian uniforms of women showed a tendency to follow the clothing style of men.