한국 남성의 신변장신구에 내재된 문화적 정체성

Abstract

Korean men of the late Joseon Dynasty lived in a culture where the philosophy of Chu Hsi, or Neo-Confucianism, prevailed as the ruling ideology of rural society and religion. In particular, scholars, who constituted the ruling class in that era, tried to follow the course of nature in all that they did. They took pleasure in artistic pursuits such as poetry, calligraphy and ink and brush painting in everyday life, Also, Korean men at that time were highly conscious of what others thought of their behavior and put honor before practical gain, They thought much about moral duty and cultivation of character and thus valued the internal and mental aspects of life. In this cultural context, Korean men extended the beauty of accessories to the artistic and moral dimensions. They expressed the elegance of quiet rural life and their belief in poor but honest li ving in their personal ornaments. Except for those used in ritual ceremonies, Korean men' s accessories were neither gaudy nor fancy, even when ornamented with high quality materials The major characteristics of men ' s accessories in the late Joseon Dynasty were as follows. First, although various materials were used to make the accessories, the kinds of materials used depended on the social status of the wearer. Second, although rules were frequently made to prohibit luxury, the yangban class, Korean noblemen in the Joseon Dynasty, rarely observed the rules, whereas the common people were strictly required to do so. Third, there was an emphasis on hair ornament and therefore many accessories for the hair. Fourth, elements of folk religion and social values were expressed in the pattems decorating their accessories. ln particular, Korean men of the late Joseon Dynasty enjoyed wearing accessories carved with patterns expressing loyalty and fidelity ln conclusion, the style of Korean men's accessories was formed in the late Joseon Dynasty in a culture where scholars and “middle people" - those belonging to the ruling class but engaged in technical jobs - put great importance on honor and form. Though they wore accessories, they tried to stick to a simple and modest lifestyle. Therefore, their accessories were simple and plain, as seen in the narrow belts that men wore around their waists .