Tim Burton 영화 의상에 표현된 Goth 스타일

Abstract

복잡한 현실에서 도피하고 싶은 열망은 판타지 영화의 열풍을 불러일으켰고, 판타지 영화에 자주 등장하는 고스(Goth) 스타일의 의상도 함께 주목을 받고 있다. 팀 버튼은 고딕 영상을 대표한다고 해도 과언이 아니며 전 세계적으로 수많은 매니아 층을 확보하고 있다. 그의 쿨(Cool)하면서도 음산한 스타일은 ‘버튼 양식’(Burtonesque)이라 일컬어질 정도이며 고스 패션에 많은 영향력을 끼치고 있다. 이에 본 연구는 팀 버튼 영화 속의 개성 있는 인물들의 의상에 나타난 고스 스타일의 표현 요소와 그 특성을 도출하고 분석하여 패션디자인 분야는 물론 영화 의상의 다양한 현상을 이해하고 자료화 하는데 그 목적이 있다. 더 나아가 영화 의상 디자인뿐만 아니라 패션 디자인에 새로운 흐름을 제시할 수 있을 것으로 기대한다. 본 연구에서는 참고 문헌 및 선행연구를 통하여 고스 스타일의 특성을 낭만성, 전복성, 악마성, 비애성, 관능성으로 분류할 수 있었다. 이러한 고스의 특징을 바탕으로 팀 버튼 영화 의상에 표현된 고스 스타일의 특징을 분석한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 고스는 낭만주의 시대의 고딕 소설의 영향에서 비롯된 빅토리아 시대풍의 의상을 선호한다. 이에 중세적인 것을 지향하며 정서적이고 이상적으로 사물을 파악하려는 성질인 낭만성이 나타난다. 팀 버튼은 등장인물에 이러한 낭만주의 시대의 의상을 주로 표현하고 있었으며, 광대, 중세 기사, 늑대인간, 뱀파이어의 이미지로 중세시대의 침울함과 공포감을 연상시킴으로써 낭만성을 나타내고 있다. 둘째, 고스는 정상을 규정하는 규범적 권위와 지배담론에 저항하는 비판적 관점에서 사회의 일반적인 가치관을 거슬러 경악스러운 사건을 생성하며 전복성을 드러낸다. 팀 버튼 영화 속의 의상은 자유자재로운 변화, 성별의 모호성, 변형된 신체, 인조인간, 반인반수, 유령의 이미지 등을 통해 현실 세계 법칙을 전복시킨다. 또한 음침하고 공포스러운 의상을 착용한 인물들의 긍정적 묘사로 인한 사회의 통념과 가치체계의 전복성으로 표현된다. 셋째, 고딕의 특성을 바탕으로 한 고스는 기괴함 또는 어두운 측면을 가지며, 불건전하고 황폐하며 변태적인 성향이나 처참한 암흑을 지향한다. 또한 그것들을 긍정적인 성격으로 귀결시키려 한다는 면에서 악마성이 나타난다. 팀 버튼은 영화 속에서 살아있는 시체의 이미지, 악마 형태, 죽음의 형상, 무기로 돌변하는 액세서리 등을 통해 공포를 형성하고, 악마적 형태와 죽음을 의미하는 형상들을 긍정적으로 묘사함으로써 악마성을 표현하고 있다. 넷째, 대부분의 고스족은 극단적인 검정 의복을 선택하는데 고스는 검정이 지니고 있는 많은 분위기와 죽음, 애도 등의 의미를 받아들이며 비애성을 지닌다. 팀 버튼 영화 속 주인공들은 낙오자, 이방인, 아웃사이더들이 주를 이루며 그들 내면의 비애와 소외감, 어두움이 음지 동물의 형상화, 가면, 베일, 극단적인 검정 의상을 통해 투영됨으로써 비애성으로 나타나고 있다. 마지막으로, 고스는 취향을 극도로 추구하는 경향이 있어 아름답고 여성스러운 곡선미를 강조하는 것뿐만 아니라 성적흥분을 유발시킨다는 면에서 관능성을 지닌다. 팀 버튼 영화에서 관능성은 드물게 나타나지만, 과다한 노출, 밀착된 실루엣, 성애화된 폭력에 대한 암시, 추악함 속에서의 새로운 미의 추구 등 다양하게 표현된다. 본 연구에서는 팀 버튼의 영화 의상에 표현된 고스 스타일을 연구하였기에 고스 패션에 대한 보다 깊이 있고 다각적인 연구가 지속되기를 기대한다.| The desire to escape from complicated reality caused the fierce trend of fantasy movies and so Goth style frequently found in fantasy movies has been drawing attention. It is not too much to say that Tim Burton represents the Gothic film with a number of enthusiastic fans all over the world. His cool and dreary style is called 'Burtonesque' and has substantial influence on Goth Fashion. Thus, this paper aims to identify and analyze the expression elements and features of Goth style observed in unique characters' clothing in his movies and to build the database on diverse kinds of features in movie costumes as well as fashion design based on the understanding on such data. Furthermore, this paper will present the new trend in fashion designs as well as in movie costume designs. The paper-classified features of Goth style into romanticism overturns diabolism, grief, and sensuality in accordance with references and existing research. The following is the analysis results on Goth style expressed on the costume of Tim Burton's movies based on the features of Goth style above. First, Goth preferred the costume in Victorian period due to the influence from gothic fictions in romantic period. Then, it pursues medieval style and shows romanticism, the feature that identifies the objects by emotional and ideal views. Goth expressed romanticism by reminding the gloom and fear of medieval times by using the image of clowns, medieval knights, werewolves and vampires. Second, Goth generated astonishing events and showed overturn by going against the general values in a society on the critical attitude resisting against the normative authority and dominating discourse in a normal society. The costumes in Tim Burton's movies overthrew the rules in reality using flexible changes, ambiguity of gender, distorted human beings, half-man-half-beasts, and ghost images. Furthermore, the positive expression on characters in gloomy and fearful costumes showed the overturn of common idea and value system in a society. Third, Goth pursued the indecent, ruined and abnormal tendency or disastrous darkness with grotesque or dark aspects based on its features. Moreover, it showed the diabolism on the aspect that it tried to conclude that such features were positive characteristics. Tim Burton created fear using the image of a live dead body, shape of a devil, shape of death and accessories suddenly changed into arms in his movies. He expressed the diabolism by positively describing demonic shapes and shapes meaning death. Next, most Goth class selected extreme black costumes. Goth showed sadness by accepting the meaning of death or condolences and diverse moods expressed by black. The characters in Tim Burton's movies are mainly losers, aliens or outsiders. Sorrow, alienation and darkness inside them expressed the sadness by being reflected through embodiment of mean animals in darkness, masks, veils and extreme black costumes. Finally, Goth had the sensuality on the aspect that it emphasized beautiful and feminine curves and induced sexual excitement as extremely pursuing the preference. Sensuality was rarely shown in Tim Burton's movies, but expressed in various ways including pursuit of new beauty in excessive exposure, skintight silhouette, suggestion on sexualized violence and frightfulness. This paper investigated the Goth style observed in costumes in Tim Burton's movies. The analysis results in this paper will be the basis for more in-depth and multilateral research on Goth fashion.

✽ Key Words: Tim Burton, Movie Costume, Gothic, Goth Style; The desire to escape from complicated reality caused the fierce trend of fantasy movies and so Goth style frequently found in fantasy movies has been drawing attention. It is not too much to say that Tim Burton represents the Gothic film with a number of enthusiastic fans all over the world. His cool and dreary style is called 'Burtonesque' and has substantial influence on Goth Fashion. Thus, this paper aims to identify and analyze the expression elements and features of Goth style observed in unique characters' clothing in his movies and to build the database on diverse kinds of features in movie costumes as well as fashion design based on the understanding on such data. Furthermore, this paper will present the new trend in fashion designs as well as in movie costume designs. The paper-classified features of Goth style into romanticism overturns diabolism, grief, and sensuality in accordance with references and existing research. The following is the analysis results on Goth style expressed on the costume of Tim Burton's movies based on the features of Goth style above. First, Goth preferred the costume in Victorian period due to the influence from gothic fictions in romantic period. Then, it pursues medieval style and shows romanticism, the feature that identifies the objects by emotional and ideal views. Goth expressed romanticism by reminding the gloom and fear of medieval times by using the image of clowns, medieval knights, werewolves and vampires. Second, Goth generated astonishing events and showed overturn by going against the general values in a society on the critical attitude resisting against the normative authority and dominating discourse in a normal society. The costumes in Tim Burton's movies overthrew the rules in reality using flexible changes, ambiguity of gender, distorted human beings, half-man-half-beasts, and ghost images. Furthermore, the positive expression on characters in gloomy and fearful costumes showed the overturn of common idea and value system in a society. Third, Goth pursued the indecent, ruined and abnormal tendency or disastrous darkness with grotesque or dark aspects based on its features. Moreover, it showed the diabolism on the aspect that it tried to conclude that such features were positive characteristics. Tim Burton created fear using the image of a live dead body, shape of a devil, shape of death and accessories suddenly changed into arms in his movies. He expressed the diabolism by positively describing demonic shapes and shapes meaning death. Next, most Goth class selected extreme black costumes. Goth showed sadness by accepting the meaning of death or condolences and diverse moods expressed by black. The characters in Tim Burton's movies are mainly losers, aliens or outsiders. Sorrow, alienation and darkness inside them expressed the sadness by being reflected through embodiment of mean animals in darkness, masks, veils and extreme black costumes. Finally, Goth had the sensuality on the aspect that it emphasized beautiful and feminine curves and induced sexual excitement as extremely pursuing the preference. Sensuality was rarely shown in Tim Burton's movies, but expressed in various ways including pursuit of new beauty in excessive exposure, skintight silhouette, suggestion on sexualized violence and frightfulness. This paper investigated the Goth style observed in costumes in Tim Burton's movies. The analysis results in this paper will be the basis for more in-depth and multilateral research on Goth fashion.

✽ Key Words: Tim Burton, Movie Costume, Gothic, Goth Style