블로그 패션 저널리즘의 기능과 역할에 대한 연구

Abstract

오늘날, 패션에 관한 보도 활동을 뜻하는 패션 저널리즘은 패션산업의 신속하고 대규모적인 흥기에 따라서 급속하게 발전되어 왔다. 소득의 증가에 따라 시간적이나 물질적 여유를 갖게 돼서 사람들이 개성과 개인적 취향을 중요시하기 시작했다. 이러한 배경에서 패션 저널리즘은 패션 정보를 전달하는 채널로 많이 관심을 받고 있다. 또한 21세기 들어 사람들이 디지털시대를 맞이하고 전통 미디어보다 시간과 공간의 제한을 고려하지 않고 언제 어디서나 이용할 수 있는 SNS는 주류가 되었다. 이를 바탕으로 패션 저널리즘 영역에서 각종 온라인 패션 미디어를 등장하여 원래 패션 저널리즘에서 지배적인 지위를 차지하고 있었던 패션잡지에게 강렬한 충격을 가져왔다. 이러한 변화에도 불구하고 많은 선행연구에서 패션 잡지의 정체성을 강조하고 저널리즘의 공적 기능의 관점에서 온라인 패션 미디어의 특성에 관한 연구는 미흡하다. 본 연구는 여러 온라인 패션 미디어들 중 가장 대중적이면서도 급속하게 발전하고 있는 패션 블로그를 연구 대상으로 블로그 패션 저널리즘에 나타난 저널리즘의 특성을 분석하였다. 본 연구는 저널리즘과 패션 저널리즘의 기능, 온라인 저널리즘의 특징을 문헌 고찰한 다음에 블로그 패션 저널리즘은 저널리즘의 각 기능상에서 어떠한 특성을 지니는지를 분석했다. 연구 대상은 중국의 대표 패션 블로그 고고보이를 선택했고 연구시간은 2015년10월부터2016년4월 까지다. 연구 방법으로 고고보이의 블로그 문장에 대해 내용분석을 실시했는데, 이는 특성을 파악에 있어 전체적으로 살펴볼 수 있다. 정해진 연구기간에서 패션 블로그 고고보이는 총196편 문장을 올렸고 이들이 선행연구에 의해 규정된 환경감시, 상관조정, 사회문화 전수, 그리고 오락 등 4가지 저널리즘의 기능에 따라 분류하여 분석했다. 각 기능의 연구결과를 보면 다름과 같이 나타났다. 첫째, 4가지 기능 중에 오락기능으로 분류한 문장이 가장 많고 어조 측면에서 긍정이 가장 많으며 국적에서 외국 패션에 관련된 정보가 가장 많은 것으로 분석되었다. 둘째, 환경감시 기능에서 패션 블로그 고고보이는 하이패션보다 더 강한 오락성과 재미성을 가진 정보를 소개하기를 선호하고 정보의 전달 상에서도 오락 성향을 가지는 것으로 나타났다. 셋째, 상호조정 기능에서 패션 블로그 고고보이는 전통 패션 미디어에 비교하여 인터넷 미디어 특성 중의 하나인 상호작용성을 활용하여 일방향적인 전달방식에서 벗어난다. 또한, 상호작용성을 통해 단일하고 긍정적인 어조를 형성한다. 넷째, 사회문화 전수 기능에서 자국 패션에 관한 정보가 매우 낮은 수준이고 절반이상을 차치하는 광고는 전부 기사성 광고의 형태로 나타났다. 마지막으로 오락 기능에서 즉시성과 실시간성을 나타났고 스타와 연예인, 또한 드라마나 영화에 관한 정보가 대부분이지만 스타일을 결산하는 데에 주제를 잡는 것으로 나타났다. 연구 결과를 정리해서 패션 저널리즘에 나타난 저널리즘 기능이 다음 4가지 특성을 나타났다. 첫째, 강한 오락성을 나타났고 패션에 대한 전문적인 논평이 부족하며 어조가 단일하고 다양하지 않다. 하지만 패션이라는 주체를 떠나지 않고 오락 패션 블로그라는 표현이 더 타당하다. 둘째, 온라인 미디어의 상호작용성, 즉시성, 그리고 실시간성 등 특성을 활용하여 패션 정보를 전달한다. 셋째, 자국 패션 문화에 대한홍보, 자국 패션 산업에 대한 육성 매우 제한된 영향을 미치다. 넷째, 기사성 광고, 스타일 결산 등 새로운 패션 저널리즘 전달 방식의 발전과 촉진에게 긍정적인 영향을 미친다. 패션 블로그를 신속하게 발전하고 있는 오늘날에 블로그 패션 저널리즘의 특성과 역할을 관한 연구가 거의 없는 것으로 볼 수 있다. 따라서 공적 패션 저널리즘의 기능의 관점에서 패션 블로그의 특성과 역할을 논의하는 본 연구를 토대로 삼아 향후 더 깊이 있게 연구할 수 있을 것이다. |Today, fashion journalism, which refers to the report activities based on fashion information, is quickly developed due to rapid and ongoing rising of the fashion industry. Along with income arising, people have been privileged to care more about preferences regarding personality and personal taste of style. As a result, as a unique and effective channel of spreading fashion information, fashion journalism has been receiving a lot of attention nowadays. In the 21st Century, often called as the Digital Era, SNS can be applied as a method of communication anytime and anywhere, without the restrictions from space or time, compared to print and broadcast media. Therefore, it allows various of online fashion media appear in the area of fashion journalism, and it has made a strong impact on fashion magazines, which are usually considered as a dominant position in fashion journalism. Although there are many changes taking place, the majority of pilot studies narrows down its focus on the identity of the fashion magazine. In addition, studies on the characteristics of the online fashion media regarding public functions of journalism are not sufficient. As a result, this research emphasizes on fashion blog, which is not only one of the most popular but also with rapid growth online fashion media, as a research subject in order to exam and evaluate the functions and characteristics on journalism of fashion blog. The subject of this research is one of the most prevailing and influential fashion blogs, called “gogoboi”, in China, and the timeframe of this research starts from Oct, 2015 to April, 2016. The methodology of this research is content analysis. During Oct, 2015 to April, 2016, the fashion blog “gogoboi” has been uploading 196 articles and categorizing those articles based on the 4 functions of journalism. A discussion on the results of each function is described as follows. Firstly, among the four functions, the entertainment function demonstrates its most value. Additionally, positive forms the majority of all tones, the information related to foreign fashion appears most. Secondly, in environment monitoring function ,fashion blog “gogoboi” has an tendency to introduce information with more entertainment and intrigues, rather than purely high fashion. Thirdly, in the reciprocal laying function, fashion blog “gogoboi” exceeds the single way of communication style by using the interaction of Internet media. Meanwhile, fashion blog “gogoboi” developed a single and positive tone, based on the reciprocal laying function. Fourthly, in the social and cultural transmission function, the information, which is related to domestic fashion, appears to be at a relatively low level. In addition, all the advertisements of “gogoboi’s” are advertorial. Last but not least, in the entertainment function, immediacy and real-time appear to be effective characteristics. Even thought a large amount of his articles is about stars, celebrities, TV plays and movies, the most topical subjects of the articles remain to be his summary of styles. Based on the results of this research, blog fashion journalism has four characteristics, described as follows. To begin with, a hint of strong entertainment and intrigue is demonstrated in the blog, and it lacks professional reviews. However, the topical subject stays on track with fashion. Therefore, it would be appropriate to regard “gogoboi” as an “entertainment fashion blog”. Next, this blog utilizes a relatively flexible application of the characteristics of online media, such as interaction, immediacy and real-time to spread the fashion information. In addition, it is limited in the impact on the publicity of domestic fashion information, as well as the fostering of domestic fashion industry that made by the blog. Finally, it has an positive influence on developing a new communication style of fashion journalism, for example, an advertorial and style summary. Although the fashion blog has developed rapidly，the research regarding on the characteristics of fashion blog is, unfortunately, very insufficient. As a result, the development of blog fashion journalism will be thriving based on this research, which is also consistent with the aspect on functions of fashion journalism.; Today, fashion journalism, which refers to the report activities based on fashion information, is quickly developed due to rapid and ongoing rising of the fashion industry. Along with income arising, people have been privileged to care more about preferences regarding personality and personal taste of style. As a result, as a unique and effective channel of spreading fashion information, fashion journalism has been receiving a lot of attention nowadays. In the 21st Century, often called as the Digital Era, SNS can be applied as a method of communication anytime and anywhere, without the restrictions from space or time, compared to print and broadcast media. Therefore, it allows various of online fashion media appear in the area of fashion journalism, and it has made a strong impact on fashion magazines, which are usually considered as a dominant position in fashion journalism. Although there are many changes taking place, the majority of pilot studies narrows down its focus on the identity of the fashion magazine. In addition, studies on the characteristics of the online fashion media regarding public functions of journalism are not sufficient. As a result, this research emphasizes on fashion blog, which is not only one of the most popular but also with rapid growth online fashion media, as a research subject in order to exam and evaluate the functions and characteristics on journalism of fashion blog. The subject of this research is one of the most prevailing and influential fashion blogs, called “gogoboi”, in China, and the timeframe of this research starts from Oct, 2015 to April, 2016. The methodology of this research is content analysis. During Oct, 2015 to April, 2016, the fashion blog “gogoboi” has been uploading 196 articles and categorizing those articles based on the 4 functions of journalism. A discussion on the results of each function is described as follows. Firstly, among the four functions, the entertainment function demonstrates its most value. Additionally, positive forms the majority of all tones, the information related to foreign fashion appears most. Secondly, in environment monitoring function ,fashion blog “gogoboi” has an tendency to introduce information with more entertainment and intrigues, rather than purely high fashion. Thirdly, in the reciprocal laying function, fashion blog “gogoboi” exceeds the single way of communication style by using the interaction of Internet media. Meanwhile, fashion blog “gogoboi” developed a single and positive tone, based on the reciprocal laying function. Fourthly, in the social and cultural transmission function, the information, which is related to domestic fashion, appears to be at a relatively low level. In addition, all the advertisements of “gogoboi’s” are advertorial. Last but not least, in the entertainment function, immediacy and real-time appear to be effective characteristics. Even thought a large amount of his articles is about stars, celebrities, TV plays and movies, the most topical subjects of the articles remain to be his summary of styles. Based on the results of this research, blog fashion journalism has four characteristics, described as follows. To begin with, a hint of strong entertainment and intrigue is demonstrated in the blog, and it lacks professional reviews. However, the topical subject stays on track with fashion. Therefore, it would be appropriate to regard “gogoboi” as an “entertainment fashion blog”. Next, this blog utilizes a relatively flexible application of the characteristics of online media, such as interaction, immediacy and real-time to spread the fashion information. In addition, it is limited in the impact on the publicity of domestic fashion information, as well as the fostering of domestic fashion industry that made by the blog. Finally, it has an positive influence on developing a new communication style of fashion journalism, for example, an advertorial and style summary. Although the fashion blog has developed rapidly，the research regarding on the characteristics of fashion blog is, unfortunately, very insufficient. As a result, the development of blog fashion journalism will be thriving based on this research, which is also consistent with the aspect on functions of fashion journalism.