중국 패션시장 진출을 위한 남성복 브랜드 상품 기획 프로세스

Abstract

국문요지

지속되는 경기 침체와 인프라를 갖춘 세계적인 글로벌 브랜드들의 전략적인 한국 패션 시장 유입으로 인해 한국 패션 브랜드들은 내수 시장에서의 입지가 매년 약해지고 있다. 정부 기관들은 발전 가능성이 높은 중소 규모의 한국 패션 브랜드들을 대상으로 해외 진출 기반을 위한 다양한 패션 사업부양 정책을 시도하고 있다. 이러한 노력에도 불구하고 세계 시장에 대한 정보 및 경험 부족, 시장 진출을 위한 상품 기획력 부족으로 정부의 다양한 패션 사업부양 정책에도 불구하고 한국 패션 브랜드들의 해외 진출이 쉽지만은 않다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 한국과 지리적, 문화적으로 가깝고 현재 약 100조원 규모의 패션 시장과 향후 그 규모가 더욱 커질 것으로 전망되고 있는 중국의 제 1 패션 도시인 상해 패션 시장의 진출을 목표로 중소규모 디자이너 브랜드가 활용할 수 있는 간소화된 패션 상품 기획 프로세스의 모델을 구축하였다. 또한 구축된 프로세스 모델을 활용하여 상해 남성복 컨템포러리 목표 시장에 적합한 브랜드를 정립하고 표적소비자의 니즈(needs)를 만족시킬 수 있는 제품 기획 및 실질적인 디자인 상품 개발을 진행하여 중국을 비롯한 세계 시장으로의 진출을 기획하고 있는 한국 패션 브랜드들에게 신 시장 진출 전략 및 상품 개발 프로세스에 대한 기초자료를 제공하고자 하였다. 본 연구는 문헌고찰과 실증적 조사를 병행하였다. 문헌고찰을 통해 1990년대 이후 지속되어온 다양한 패션 상품 기획 프로세스의 연구들과 결과물들을 분석한 결과 구축된 패션 상품 기획 프로세스들이 인프라가 갖춰진 대기업에 적합한 모델들로, 수행인원이 적은 중소규모의 패션 브랜드에서 적용하기는 어려운 모델임이 밝혀졌다. 또한 시대적으로 빠른 상품 회전율의 요구가 급증하여 기획과 생산 기간을 단축시킬 수 있는 프로세스 모델 구축의 필요성이 시사되었다. 선행연구와 인터넷 자료 분석을 통해 먼저 확장된 신개념 내수시장인 K-zone을 토대로 하여 첫 진출 국가로 현재 약 100조원 규모의 중국 패션 시장의 남성복 시장을 목표시장으로 채택하였다. 중국 선진 도시들 중 패션 소비가 가장 높은 것으로 나타난 상해 패션 시장은 국제화, 브랜드화, 개성화를 추구하는 소비자가 매년 증가하고 있으며 그 중에서도 신흥 여피족이라 불리는 고학력, 고소득의 젊은 남성 소비자들이 집중되어 있다. 이들은 개성이 뚜렷하며 패션 소비 욕구가 높고 품질과 품질에 적합한 가격에 민감하다. 또한 한국 디자인이나 제품에 대한 선호도가 다른 대도시 소비자에 비해 월등히 높게 나타나 목표시장과 표적소비자가 세분화 되었다. 실증적 조사에서는 2013년부터 2015년까지 상해 남성복 스트리트 패션에서 나타난 스타일과 룩의 분석을 통해 상해 남성 소비자의 선호 착장 이미지 변화를 고찰하였다. 2013년에는 각자의 개성을 표현한 개별 착장의 빈도가 높게 나타났으나 2014년을 기점으로 글로벌 트렌드에서 나타난 대표적인 룩들과 유사한 착장들이 등장하였고 2015년에는 전체적으로 글로벌 트렌드에 부합한 룩들을 활용한 착장들의 빈도가 급증하였다. 전체적으로 상해 남성소비자들은 글로벌 트렌드에 민감하며 쉬크하고 컨템포러리한 도회적 스타일링을 선호하는 것을 살펴볼 수 있었다. 다음으로는 한국 패션 시장에서 오랜 경험과 노하우를 바탕으로 현재 중국내수 패션 기업에서 활발하게 활동하고 있는 7명의 전문가를 대상으로 2016년 3월 15일부터 18일까지 상해에서 일대일 면접을 통해 심층 인터뷰를 실시하였다. 면접 결과, 중국 대도시 중 인터내셔널 브랜드에 대한 선호도가 가장 높은 상해 패션 시장이 한국 패션 브랜드들이 진출하기 가장 적합한 도시인 것으로 밝혀졌다. 또한 개성을 추구하는 젊고 구매력이 높은 남성소비자의 증가로 꾸준한 성장세를 보이고 있는 컨템포러리 남성복 시장에 대하여 매우 긍정적일 것으로 평가를 하였다. 본 연구의 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 문헌고찰과 실증적 조사를 통해 제품의 기획 및 생산이 적은 인원으로 가능한 모델이 구축되었다. 또한 개발 단계를 단순화시키고 각 단계별 수행차원을 간소화시킴으로서 개발 기간을 기존의 상품 기획 프로세스보다 단축시킬 수 있어 상품의 시장회전율을 높일 수 있다. 단계는 ① 비즈니스 전략 단계 → ② 상품 전략 단계 → ③ 상품 개발 단계로 정립되었으며 각 단계에서 수행되어야 할 차원들이 분류되었다. 둘째, 구축된 패션 상품 기획 프로세스 모델의 실행 가능성을 검증하기 위하여 남성복 브랜드를 구축하고 사전조사를 통해 정립된 상해 컨템포러리 남성복 시장 진출을 목표로 2016년 A/W 시즌 론칭을 위한 실제 컬렉션의 개발을 진행 하였다. 셋째, 구축된 브랜드의 상품을 위한 SKU 플랜, 예상 원가비용, 샘플의 전체 개발 기간이 포함된 스케줄링 등을 바탕으로 상해 시장과 소비자에 적합한 머천다이징 플래닝을 설정하였다. 넷째, ‘Artificial Naturalism’ 이라는 2016년 A/W 시즌의 전체 디자인 컬렉션의 컨셉을 잡고 각 스타일은 컬러, 소재, 실루엣 등의 채택 단계를 거쳐 상품으로 개발되었다. 기획된 각 스타일들의 상품 구성을 위한 샘플 제작이 작업지시서를 통해 진행되었다. 다섯째, 샘플 품평회에서는 컬렉션 착장, 상품 구성 및 최종 가격을 결정하였다. 가을 컬렉션인 컬렉션 1은 전체 20 착장으로 구성되었고 컬렉션 2의 전체 착장은 15 착장으로 이루어졌다. 겨울 시즌인 컬렉션 3은 타이트한 구성으로, 전체 착장은 10착장으로 채택되어 생산 수주 전 단계까지의 진행과정이 모두 수행되었다. 본 연구는 이론적 고찰과 실증적 조사를 통하여 중소규모의 디자이너 브랜드를 위한 간소화된 패션 상품 기획 프로세스 모델을 구축하고자 하였다. 또한 본 연구가 제안하는 프로세스 과정의 순서와 절차에 따라 약 3개월 반의 개발기간동안 실제적인 상품 기획과 개발의 결과물을 도출하여 적은 인원으로 빠른 시장회전율에 부합되는 패션 상품 기획프로세스의 실행 가능성을 검증하였다. 세계적으로 한국 디자인 및 상품성이 인정받고 있으며 많은 소규모 디자이너 브랜드와 중소규모의 중고가 브랜드들이 한국 내수 시장을 벗어나 해외 시장 진출을 기획하고 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서 도출된 결과가 이론적인 접근이 부족한 중소규모의 디자이너 브랜드들에게 신 시장 진출을 위한 전략에 활용될 수 있는 유용한 자료가 되기를 기대한다. 또한 상품화가 가능한 패션 상품 기획 프로세스의 연구 자료가 부족한 학계에는 실무에 가까운 패션 상품 프로세스의 과정, 수행차원 그리고 실제적인 실무 개발 과정을 제시할 수 있는 자료로 활용될 것을 기대한다.|ABSTRACT

Product Development Process of Men’swear Brand for Entry into China Market

Kim, Hyunsue Dept. of Clothing and Textiles Graduate School of Hanyang University

Korean fashion brands' position has been getting weaker in Korea fashion market since the worsening of the market economy has been continued and also global fashion brands who possess enormous capital have been entering into Korea fashion market with strong business strategy for past years. Korean government organizations are trying various policies to support for Korean fashion brands to expand into global fashion market. Despite the efforts, small medium-size fashion enterprises have been having hard times entering into global fashion market due to the lack of experiences to pre-build appropriate business strategy and tactical product development planning. The purpose of this study is to build simplified fashion product development process model for the small medium-size fashion enterprises and brands to enter into China fashion market which possesses 100 billion won market breadth currently and is expected to rise increasingly. This study was also adduced to build appropriate brand, merchandising planning and develop design product targeting Shanghai contemporary men'swear market and customers to show Korean fashion brands how to utilize pre-build business strategy and compatible product development process. Literature review and empirical research were used in parallel for this study. Through literature reviews, various fashion product processes and related studies were found to have been conducted focusing on building fashion product development processes for the large fashion corporations since 1990's. These results show that several independent and dependant departments besides merchandising and design have to be involved in order to proceed the process and take a long period of time to fulfill the process completely in addition. Thus, the necessity to build appropriate simplified fashion product development process model has unfolded. Advanced researches and credible internet references were indicating that China fashion market is the most potential target market and particularly Shanghai fashion market is the highest fashion consuming city among other tier 1 cites in China. In addition, the male consumers who pursue internationalization, branded experience and individualization are increasing dramatically and belong to upper middle class were converged on Shanghai. These high income, well educated and quality driven young yuppies have strong purchasing power and forceful personalities. Preference for Korean design and products appeared much higher than in other major cities of the consumer. One of the empirical research was Shanghai men's street fashion analysis from year 2013 through 2015. Through this analysis, the major alteration of Shanghai men's fashion style and look has been found. Showing off high individuality though fashion styling were faded out slowly from 2013 to 2014. Shanghai consumers have adopting global trends, look, style and color rapidly starting from 2015. The result of this analysis shows that Shanghai male consumers prefers chic, comtemporary and urban looking styling these days. The other empirical research of this study aimed for in-depth study of fashion professionals who are working for China fashion companies as important management roles who also have strong Korean fashion industry experiences. Total 7 of professionals were selected. The in-depth interview was held from March 15th through 18th, 2016 in Shanghai. According to the results of in-depth interview, Shanghai is the most favorable city among other tier 1 cities for Korean fashion brands to plan entering into China market. Shanghai consumers are open for the international brand and high preference of newness. Comtemporary men's wear market was selected as a big potential market due to the increasement of unique, young, upper middle class male consumers. Professionals claimed that these new yuppies would continue to seek good quality, well designed new brand and product which can fulfill their needs. The results of this study are as below. First, though literature review and empirical research, the simplified and fast cycle fashion product development process was established for the small medium-size fashion enterprises. The fashion product development process for entry into new market was proceeded the sequence of following phases, ① business strategy process → ② product strategy process → ③ product development process. Each process has drew specific fulfillment factors. Second, to verify the process model, comtemporary men's wear brand targeting for Shanghai fashion market was built to design and produce products for A/W 16 season. Third, to make structured brand for this study, product merchandising planning was established including sampling SKU, pricing and scheduling. Fourth, A/W 16 general design concept was set as ‘Artificial Naturalism’. Under this concept, the color, material and silhouette were selected at once to create styles. Each style were designed and sampled individually through sampling technical packages process. Fifth, final sample adoption meeting was held to set collection outfits, final product assortments and pricing. Autumn 16 collection was divided by two. The collection 1 was fixed as 20 outfits while collection 2 was set as 15 outfits. Winter 16 collection was small and tight comparing to autumn collections. Collect 3 was fixed as 10 outfits. This study established the appropriate simplified fashion product development process for small medium-size enterprises and brands. To adduce the new built process model, fashion product development was proceeded by the suggested sequence of phases during approx. 3 months development period of time and it drew the satisfied results successfully. Korean design and products have been recognized globally. Many of small size designer brand and small medium-size fashion companies are planning to enter into global fashion market. Accordingly, the result that this study drew from research and analysis would be used for them to build global market and product development strategy while it is utilized as being exemplified study has shown practical fashion development process along with process theory in fashion academic world.; ABSTRACT

Product Development Process of Men’swear Brand for Entry into China Market

Kim, Hyunsue Dept. of Clothing and Textiles Graduate School of Hanyang University

Korean fashion brands' position has been getting weaker in Korea fashion market since the worsening of the market economy has been continued and also global fashion brands who possess enormous capital have been entering into Korea fashion market with strong business strategy for past years. Korean government organizations are trying various policies to support for Korean fashion brands to expand into global fashion market. Despite the efforts, small medium-size fashion enterprises have been having hard times entering into global fashion market due to the lack of experiences to pre-build appropriate business strategy and tactical product development planning. The purpose of this study is to build simplified fashion product development process model for the small medium-size fashion enterprises and brands to enter into China fashion market which possesses 100 billion won market breadth currently and is expected to rise increasingly. This study was also adduced to build appropriate brand, merchandising planning and develop design product targeting Shanghai contemporary men'swear market and customers to show Korean fashion brands how to utilize pre-build business strategy and compatible product development process. Literature review and empirical research were used in parallel for this study. Through literature reviews, various fashion product processes and related studies were found to have been conducted focusing on building fashion product development processes for the large fashion corporations since 1990's. These results show that several independent and dependant departments besides merchandising and design have to be involved in order to proceed the process and take a long period of time to fulfill the process completely in addition. Thus, the necessity to build appropriate simplified fashion product development process model has unfolded. Advanced researches and credible internet references were indicating that China fashion market is the most potential target market and particularly Shanghai fashion market is the highest fashion consuming city among other tier 1 cites in China. In addition, the male consumers who pursue internationalization, branded experience and individualization are increasing dramatically and belong to upper middle class were converged on Shanghai. These high income, well educated and quality driven young yuppies have strong purchasing power and forceful personalities. Preference for Korean design and products appeared much higher than in other major cities of the consumer. One of the empirical research was Shanghai men's street fashion analysis from year 2013 through 2015. Through this analysis, the major alteration of Shanghai men's fashion style and look has been found. Showing off high individuality though fashion styling were faded out slowly from 2013 to 2014. Shanghai consumers have adopting global trends, look, style and color rapidly starting from 2015. The result of this analysis shows that Shanghai male consumers prefers chic, comtemporary and urban looking styling these days. The other empirical research of this study aimed for in-depth study of fashion professionals who are working for China fashion companies as important management roles who also have strong Korean fashion industry experiences. Total 7 of professionals were selected. The in-depth interview was held from March 15th through 18th, 2016 in Shanghai. According to the results of in-depth interview, Shanghai is the most favorable city among other tier 1 cities for Korean fashion brands to plan entering into China market. Shanghai consumers are open for the international brand and high preference of newness. Comtemporary men's wear market was selected as a big potential market due to the increasement of unique, young, upper middle class male consumers. Professionals claimed that these new yuppies would continue to seek good quality, well designed new brand and product which can fulfill their needs. The results of this study are as below. First, though literature review and empirical research, the simplified and fast cycle fashion product development process was established for the small medium-size fashion enterprises. The fashion product development process for entry into new market was proceeded the sequence of following phases, ① business strategy process → ② product strategy process → ③ product development process. Each process has drew specific fulfillment factors. Second, to verify the process model, comtemporary men's wear brand targeting for Shanghai fashion market was built to design and produce products for A/W 16 season. Third, to make structured brand for this study, product merchandising planning was established including sampling SKU, pricing and scheduling. Fourth, A/W 16 general design concept was set as ‘Artificial Naturalism’. Under this concept, the color, material and silhouette were selected at once to create styles. Each style were designed and sampled individually through sampling technical packages process. Fifth, final sample adoption meeting was held to set collection outfits, final product assortments and pricing. Autumn 16 collection was divided by two. The collection 1 was fixed as 20 outfits while collection 2 was set as 15 outfits. Winter 16 collection was small and tight comparing to autumn collections. Collect 3 was fixed as 10 outfits. This study established the appropriate simplified fashion product development process for small medium-size enterprises and brands. To adduce the new built process model, fashion product development was proceeded by the suggested sequence of phases during approx. 3 months development period of time and it drew the satisfied results successfully. Korean design and products have been recognized globally. Many of small size designer brand and small medium-size fashion companies are planning to enter into global fashion market. Accordingly, the result that this study drew from research and analysis would be used for them to build global market and product development strategy while it is utilized as being exemplified study has shown practical fashion development process along with process theory in fashion academic world.