패션이미지에 따른 의류소재의 분석 및 직물감성의 인지

Abstract

의류소재를 패션이미지로 구분하는 방법은 온라인 구매의 증가로 소비자들이 다양한 욕구충족을 추구하면서 짧은 유행주기와 급변하는 현대 트렌드에는 연구가 부족한 실정이며, 실물소재가 부착된 패션정보지에 관한 연구 또한 부족하다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 패션 정보지에 부착된 소재에 나타난 패션이미지에 따른 의류소재의 특성을 분석하여 소재특성과 패션이미지를 체계화하고, 소비자들이 인지하는 패션이미지, 소재이미지, 시각적 촉감을 알아봄으로써 해당 시즌의 자료를 산업적인 기초지식으로 제공하여 소재기획 분야에 도움을 주고자 한다. 연구의 방법은 여성복 패션정보지에 부착된 실물소재를 대상으로 패션이미지와 시즌에 따른 의류소재의 특성을 알아보았으며, 소비자가 인지하는 패션이미지와 소재이미지를 알아보고, 시각적 촉감을 알아보면서 소재이미지에 따른 시각적 촉감을 살펴보았다. 자료분석은 SPSS 24.0을 이용하여 빈도분석, 기술통계, t-test, ANOVA를 시행하여 얻은 결과는 다음과 같다.

첫째, 패션정보지에 나타난 시즌과 패션이미지에 따른 의류소재의 특성을 알아본 결과, 클래식이미지는 양모, 일반사, 능직과 이중직, 기모가공, 검정색상의 소재에서 주로 나타났고, 스포티이미지는 혼방섬유, 폴리우레탄, 합연사, 크레이프직, 기능성 소재로 표현되었으며, 로맨틱이미지는 단독섬유, 면, 무늬가 있는 소재, 물방울무늬, 엠보싱가공, 비침이 있는 소재에서 많이 나타났다. 엘레강스이미지는 단사, 광택효과, 비침이 있고 주황색상에서 주로 많이 나타났으며, 아방가르드이미지는 기하학무늬에서 많이 나타났다. 모던이미지는 필라멘트사 직물에 주로 나타났고, 매니시이미지는 줄무늬 소재에서 나타났다.

둘째, 소비자가 인지하는 패션이미지와 소재이미지를 알아본 결과, 패션이미지에서 대체적으로 의류 전공자와 비전공자 두 집단 간에 비슷한 인지가 나타났으며, 소재이미지는 패션이미지와 비교하였을 때 전공자는 패션이미지와 동일하게 인지하였으나 비전공자는 패션이미지와 차이가 있음을 알 수 있었다.

셋째, 소비자들이 인지하는 시각적 촉감을 전공별 차이로 알아본 결과는 S/S테마보다 F/W테마에서 유의한 차이가 많이 나타났으며, F/W테마의 시각적 촉감은 전공자가 거친, 두꺼운, 신축성이 없는 재질감으로 인지하였으며 S/S테마에서는 전공자가 비교적 두껍고, 매끄러운, 유연한, 뻣뻣한 재질감으로 인지하며 비전공자는 가벼운, 유연한 신축성이 있다고 인지하였다.

소비자가 인지하는 소재이미지에 따른 시각적 촉감 평가의 차이는 S/S테마보다 F/W테마에서 유의한 차이가 많이 나타났으며, 엘레강스이미지는 비교적 두껍고 건조한 재질감으로 나타났고, 아방가르드이미지는 비교적 무거운, 두꺼운 재질감으로 나타났으며, 페미닌이미지는 비교적 얇고 매끄러운 재질감으로 나타났다. 스포티이미지는 촉촉한, 유연하고 신축성이 있는 재질감이며 매니시이미지는 비교적 거친 재질감으로 나타났다. 로맨틱이미지는 비교적 얇은 재질감으로, 에스닉이미지는 비교적 거친, 딱딱한, 뻣뻣한 재질감으로 나타났으며, 클래식이미지는 비교적 신축성이 없는 재질감으로 나타났다.

이와 같은 결과로부터 추론한 결론은 정보지에서 나타난 의류소재는 시즌별 패션이미지에 따라 의류소재의 특성이 현저히 다르게 표현되며, 소비자가 인지하는 패션이미지에서 시각적인 자료를 바탕으로 두 집단 간 동일하게 인지하는 경향을 보인다. 소비자가 인지하는 소재이미지에 따른 시각적 촉감 평가는 전공별 차이가 있으며 소재이미지에 따른 재질감의 특성에도 차이가 있으므로 의류 소재, 트렌드에 대한 사전정보가 이미지를 선정하는데 영향을 미칠 수 있다.

본 연구에 대한 결과를 통하여 2016~2018년까지 정보지에 나타난 소재별 구성요소 자료에 대해 소비자들이 인지하는 패션이미지, 소재이미지, 시각적 촉감을 알아봄으로써 패션상품기획에 맞는 의복을 생산하려면 적합한 소재선정이 필요하므로 패션이미지별 의류소재의 특성을 익히면 의류 기획자는 소재기획 시에 각 트렌드와 시즌에 맞는 의류소재 선정에 도움이 될 것이다. | Classifying clothing fabrics into fashion images is a lack of research in the short cycle of fashion and rapidly changing modern trends as consumers seek to satisfy various needs due to the increase of online purchases, and there is also a lack of research on fashion trend book which attached real fabrics. Therefore, this study aims to help the matter planning field by analyzing the characteristics of clothing fabrics related ashion image shown on the fabrics attached to the fashion information magazine to systemize the fabric characteristics and fashion image, and provide data of this season with basic industrial knowledge by learning about the fashion image, fabric image and visual tactility that consumers perceive. The research method examined the characteristics of fashion images and clothing fabrics related to the season, and the visual touch related to the fabric image was examined by the consumers as well as the visual tactility. The data analysis results from frequency analysis, descriptive statistics, t-test and ANOVA using SPSS 24.0 are as follows:

First, after examining the characteristics of clothing fabrics related to the season and fashion image shown in the fashion trend book, the classic image was mainly shown in fabrics of wool, simple yarn, twill and double weaves, napping and black color, the sporty image was expressed by mixed fiber, polyurethane, ply yarn, crepe weave, and functional fabric, and the romantic image was mainly shown in single fiber, cotton, patterned fabric, waterdrop pattern, embossing finish and other fabric that have see-through. The Elegance image was shown in single yarn, luster effect, see-through fabric, and mostly in orange color, and avant-garde images were mainly shown in geometric patterns. Modern images were mainly shown in filament yarn, while mannish images were shown in striped fabrics.

Second, after examining the fashion image and the fabric image that consumers perceive, the fashion image showed similar recognition between the two groups of clothing major and people who are not, and when compared with the fashion image, the fabric image was recognized by the major as same as the fashion image, but the other group showed the different result between the fashion image.

Third, the results of recognizing the perceived visual tactility by the difference between majors and those who are not showed more significant differences in F/W themes than in S/S themes, and the visual tactility of F/W themes by major was perceived as coarse, thick, non-flexible, and stiff fabrics, and in S/S themes, while major perceived it as relatively thick, smooth, flexible, stiff, while non major perceived it as light, flexible and elastic.

Differences in the visual tactility evaluation related to consumer recognized fabric images showed more significant differences in F/W themes than in S/S, the Elegance image was shown as relatively thick and dry fabric, the avant-garde image was shown as relatively heavy, thick fabric, and the femine image was shown as relatively thin and smooth fabric. Sporty images were shown to be moist, flexible and elastic, and manish images were relatively rough. Romantic images were shown as relatively thin fabrics, while classical images were relatively inflexible.

The conclusions inferred from these results show that clothing fabrics have significantly different characteristics depending on the fashion image of each season, and that they tend to recognize the same characteristics between the two groups based on visual data in the fashion image that consumers perceive. The visual tactile evaluation related to the fabric image recognized by the consumer varies by major, and it also differs at the fabric image in the characteristics of the texture, so prior information on clothing fabrics and trends can affect the selection of images.

The results of this study show that in order to produce clothes suitable for fashion product planning by learning about the fashion image, fabric image, and visual tactility that consumers recognize about the fabrics component data displayed in fashion trend book from 2016 to 2018 are needed, so the clothing planner can receive help to select clothing fabrics suitable for each trend and season in the fabric planning process if one learns characteristics of different clothing fabrics.; Classifying clothing fabrics into fashion images is a lack of research in the short cycle of fashion and rapidly changing modern trends as consumers seek to satisfy various needs due to the increase of online purchases, and there is also a lack of research on fashion trend book which attached real fabrics. Therefore, this study aims to help the matter planning field by analyzing the characteristics of clothing fabrics related ashion image shown on the fabrics attached to the fashion information magazine to systemize the fabric characteristics and fashion image, and provide data of this season with basic industrial knowledge by learning about the fashion image, fabric image and visual tactility that consumers perceive. The research method examined the characteristics of fashion images and clothing fabrics related to the season, and the visual touch related to the fabric image was examined by the consumers as well as the visual tactility. The data analysis results from frequency analysis, descriptive statistics, t-test and ANOVA using SPSS 24.0 are as follows:

First, after examining the characteristics of clothing fabrics related to the season and fashion image shown in the fashion trend book, the classic image was mainly shown in fabrics of wool, simple yarn, twill and double weaves, napping and black color, the sporty image was expressed by mixed fiber, polyurethane, ply yarn, crepe weave, and functional fabric, and the romantic image was mainly shown in single fiber, cotton, patterned fabric, waterdrop pattern, embossing finish and other fabric that have see-through. The Elegance image was shown in single yarn, luster effect, see-through fabric, and mostly in orange color, and avant-garde images were mainly shown in geometric patterns. Modern images were mainly shown in filament yarn, while mannish images were shown in striped fabrics.

Second, after examining the fashion image and the fabric image that consumers perceive, the fashion image showed similar recognition between the two groups of clothing major and people who are not, and when compared with the fashion image, the fabric image was recognized by the major as same as the fashion image, but the other group showed the different result between the fashion image.

Third, the results of recognizing the perceived visual tactility by the difference between majors and those who are not showed more significant differences in F/W themes than in S/S themes, and the visual tactility of F/W themes by major was perceived as coarse, thick, non-flexible, and stiff fabrics, and in S/S themes, while major perceived it as relatively thick, smooth, flexible, stiff, while non major perceived it as light, flexible and elastic.

Differences in the visual tactility evaluation related to consumer recognized fabric images showed more significant differences in F/W themes than in S/S, the Elegance image was shown as relatively thick and dry fabric, the avant-garde image was shown as relatively heavy, thick fabric, and the femine image was shown as relatively thin and smooth fabric. Sporty images were shown to be moist, flexible and elastic, and manish images were relatively rough. Romantic images were shown as relatively thin fabrics, while classical images were relatively inflexible.

The conclusions inferred from these results show that clothing fabrics have significantly different characteristics depending on the fashion image of each season, and that they tend to recognize the same characteristics between the two groups based on visual data in the fashion image that consumers perceive. The visual tactile evaluation related to the fabric image recognized by the consumer varies by major, and it also differs at the fabric image in the characteristics of the texture, so prior information on clothing fabrics and trends can affect the selection of images.

The results of this study show that in order to produce clothes suitable for fashion product planning by learning about the fashion image, fabric image, and visual tactility that consumers recognize about the fabrics component data displayed in fashion trend book from 2016 to 2018 are needed, so the clothing planner can receive help to select clothing fabrics suitable for each trend and season in the fabric planning process if one learns characteristics of different clothing fabrics.