섬유디자인제품의 염색성 제고를 위한 발호조건에 관한 연구

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to enhance the dyeing ability for fiber design. After obtaining from the market fabrics which had been sized with mixed thickening agents, desizing them in different ways, and comparing findings that concerned desizing ability, dyeing ability and color fastness, I've attempted to better determine and present the optimal conditions for desizing. As to the concentration of thickening agents, the optimal concentration of the non-ionic surfactant proved to be 3-5g/l, where cotton fabrics showed a higher weight loss ratio than silk fabrics. The peroxides made no difference in the weight loss ratio between cotton fabrics and silk fabrics and showed the maximum weight loss ratio at 5g/l. The optimal concentration of the enzyme proved to be 4-5g/l, where in my view, with cotton fabrics, the wdght loss was due to the resolution by the enzyme of starch much contained in fabrics and with silk fabrics, the weight loss was a result of the temperature effect, that PVA is well removed at 70V,rather than the removal of starch. The sizing agent with non-ionic surfactant showed a higher performance of scouring with the increase of temperature and time, where it worked effectively under conditions of 80 °C and less than 10 hours. The peroxides showed the best performance under conditions of 80 °C and about 5 hours, a -amylase showed the most effective performance under conditions of 5g/l, 80 °C and 30 minutes. Concaning the effect of the desizing n^thods, with cotton fateics, scouring by the water-only method obtained little scouring and desizing effect, while scouring in water with detergent showed slightly higher performance and the enzymatic method and the oxidation method showed a significantly higher performance of weight loss. With silk fabrics, die water-only method showed a much higher weight loss ratio because PVA of high temperature type which is widely used in the industry is easily removed by even high temperature water alone. Water with detergent or enzyme can get rid of not only PVA but also other impurities and starch, tha-eby obtaining an inproved weight loss ratio. In respect to relations with the dyeing ability, with cotton fabrics dyed with the direct dye, the desized ones could be found to show a much higher dyeing ability than those undesized. Silk fabrics without scouring and desizing also showed the lowest dyeing ability and those after scouring and desizing showed an almost twice higher dyeing ability than the former.