3차원 인체형상의 평면전개에 의한 성인남성의 체형유형별 타이트 핏 토르소원형 설계

Abstract

최근 남성복에서 체형의 심미적 표현과 의복의 기능적 측면들이 더욱 요구되는 신체밀착형 의복이 유행하는 가운데 3차원 인체스캔테이터를 활용한 체형분석과 3차원 인체스캔형상의 체표면 전개를 통해 추출된 패턴을 의복 설계에 적용하는 것은 의복의 신체 적합성을 향상시켜 맞음새에 대한 만족도를 증대시키는데 효율적일 것이다. 또한 여유분이 최소한으로 적용된 원형은 신체밀착형 의복 설계 뿐 아니라 동작과 기능에 따라 여유분을 조절하여 다양한 아이템과 디자인으로 전개하기에 용이하므로 이를 연구하는 것은 의의가 있다고 할 수 있다. 따라서 본 연구의 목적은 3차원 인체형상 자료를 이용하여 20∼75세 성인 남성의 체간부 형태에 따라 체형을 유형화하고, 체형유형별 대표모델의 3차원 인체형상을 2차원 평면으로 전개하여 얻은 체표원형을 이용하여 체형유형별 타이트 핏 토르소원형을 개발하여 그 패턴설계방법을 제시하고자 하는데 그 목적이 있다. 연구방법은 ‘제 5차 국민표준체위조사’의 3차원 인체형상 자료를 이용하여 20∼75세 성인 남성 1796명의 체형을 유형화하여 그 특성을 분석하고, 체형유형별 대표모델을 선정하여 3차원 인체형상을 2차원 평면으로 전개하여 체표전개도를 완성하고 착의평가에 의해 수정․보완한 후 체형유형별 체표원형을 완성하였다. 체표원형에 타이트 핏(Tight-fit) 토르소원형을 위한 체형유형별 여유분을 설정하고 착의평가에 의해 원형의 수정․보완과 적합성을 검증한 후 최종 성인남성을 위한 체형유형별 타이트 핏 토르소원형을 개발하고 패턴설계방법을 제시하였다. 자료 분석은 SPSSWIN Ver. 17.0 프로그램을 사용하여 평균과 빈도, 요인분석, 군집분석, 분산분석과 Duncan-test를 실시하여 자료룰 분석하였다.

본 연구의 결과로 얻은 결론은 다음과 같다.

1. 성인 남성의 체간부 형태에 따라 체형분류를 한 결과, 체간부를 구성하는 요인은 9개 요인으로 분석되었다. 제 1요인은 ‘체간부수평적크기’ 요인, 제 2요인은 ‘인체수직크기’ 요인, 제 3요인은 ‘체간부굴곡과 허리․배편평률’ 요인, 제 4요인은 ‘체간부길이’ 요인, 제 5요인은 ‘목부위형태’ 요인, 제 6요인은 ‘측면굽은정도’ 요인, 제 7요인은 ‘앞․뒤품차’ 요인, 제 8요인은 ‘어깨․겨드랑형태’ 요인, 제 9요인은 ‘가슴부위편평률’ 요인으로 분석되었다. 요인분석을 토대로 성인남성의 체간부 형태를 유형화 한 결과, 5개의 유형으로 분류되었다. 유형1은 키가 크고 체간부가 짧으며 굴곡이 유형 중에 가장 크고 마른 납작한 체형으로 어깨부위가 크고 어깨기울기가 보통에 속하는 바른체형으로 “굴곡있는 납작한 바른체형”으로 명명하였다. 유형2는 유형1과 같이 체간부 굴곡이 있고 비교적 납작하며 목부위가 가늘고 처진어깨에 겨드랑 부위가 두꺼운 젖힌체형으로 “굴곡있는 젖힌체형”으로 명명하였다. 유형3은 체간부상부는 길고 체간부하부는 짧으며 굴곡이 없는 원통형의 복부비만체형으로 처진어깨와 바른체형에 속하며 “굴곡이 없는 복부비만체형”으로 명명하였다. 유형4는 체간부상부는 짧고 체간부하부는 길며 체간부수평크기가 유형 중 가장 크며 굴곡이 작은 원통형의 비만한 체형으로 목부위가 두껍고 보통어깨에 휜체형의 특징을 가지므로 “비만한 휜체형”으로 명명하였다. 유형5는 체간부수평․수직크기가 가장 작으며 체간부 굴곡이 적은 비교적 밋밋한 원통형의 체형으로 솟은어깨, 겨드랑부위가 가늘며 가슴부위가 두껍고 숙인체형의 특징을 가지며 “두꺼운 숙인체형”으로 명명하였다. 연령에 따른 체형 유형의 분포는 유형1은 20대 초반-30대 초반, 유형2는 30대 후반-40대 후반, 유형3은 50대 후반-60대 후반, 유형4는 50대 초반, 유형5는 70대 초반에 많은 인원분포를 나타내었으며 연령이 증가할수록 인체의 두께부위로 지방침착이 많아져서 점차 굴곡이 없는 원통형의 체형으로 변화되고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 2. 성인 남성의 체형분류에 의해 선정된 체형유형별 대표모델의 3차원 형상 을 평면 전개하여 체표원형을 설계한 결과, 유형1과 유형2는 허리둘레가 잘록한 굴곡이 있는 체형으로 앞중심을 기준으로 패턴들을 조합하였을 때 앞허리다트가 될 프린세스라인이 엉덩이부위까지 자연스럽게 벌어지도록 패턴이 형성되었고, 앞․뒤허리다트량 많아 굴곡이 있는 체형의 특징을 잘 표현하고 있으며 유형3․유형4․유형5는 비교적 굴곡이 없는 원통형의 체형으로 앞프린세스라인이 닫힌 구조의 다트선 형태를 형성하고 있으며, 유형1․유형2의 체표원형에 비해 상대적으로 앞․뒤허리다트량이 적으므로 원통형의 체형 특징을 잘 반영하고 있었다. 특히 유형3과 유형4는 굴곡이 없으면서 전반적으로 비만하거나 복부가 비만한 체형으로 유형5에 비해서도 앞허리다트의 양과 길이가 매우 적게 형성되었다. 유형2 체표원형의 어깨다트량과 길이가 가장 적고 짧으며 뒤허리다트량은 가장 많고 긴 형태를 띠고 있어 젖힌체형의 모습을 잘 반영하고 있으며, 유형5는 어깨다트량이 가장 많고 길이가 길며, 뒤허리다트량이 가장 적어 숙인체형의 모습이 체표원형에 잘 반영된 것으로 나타났다. 3. 체형유형별 체표원형에 체형별로 적정 여유분을 설정하여 성인 남성의 체형유형별 타이트 핏 토르소원형을 설계한 결과, 체형유형별로 가슴둘레와 허리둘레, 엉덩이둘레의 여유분은 유형1의 경우 각 신체부위의 7%, 6%, 5%로 설정되었고, 유형2는 7%, 6%, 4%, 유형3은 6.5%, 7%, 6%, 유형4는 6.5%, 6.5%, 5%, 유형5는 7%, 6.5%, 5%로 설정되었다. 가슴둘레여유분은 복부비만체형(유형3)과 비만한 휜체형(유형4)에서 가장 적게, 허리둘레여유분은 복부비만체형(유형3)에서 가장 크게, 엉덩이둘레여유분은 젖힌체형(유형2)에서 가장 적게, 복부비만체형(유형3)에서 가장 크게 설정되었다. 가슴둘레와 허리둘레, 엉덩이둘레의 앞․뒤에 적용된 여유분 비율은 유형1은 각 부위여유분에서 모두 50%:50%(앞:뒤)로 배분되었고, 유형2는 70%:30%, 50%:50%, 60%:40%로, 유형3은 60%:40%, 70%:30%, 60%:40%로, 유형4는 40%:60, 50%:50%, 50%:50%로, 유형5는 40%:60, 40%:60, 50%:50%로 배분되었다. 젖힌체형(유형2)의 경우 가슴둘레의 앞여유분 비율이 유형 중 가장 크게, 복부비만체형(유형3)의 경우 허리둘레의 앞여유분 비율이 가장 크게, 숙인체형(유형5)의 경우 가슴둘레와 허리둘레의 여유분비율이 뒤가 크게 배분되었다. 체표원형에 각 체형특징별로 적정여유분을 설정하여 완성된 체형유형별 타이트 핏 토르소원형을 제도식으로 환산하여 제시하였다. 유형1의 등길이와 엉덩이옆길이는 실측치를, 진동깊이는 C/4cm, 앞․뒤품은 실측치/2+0.4cm, 어깨길이는 실측치+0.2cm를 설정하였다. 앞․뒤목너비는 목밑둘레/5-1.6cm, 목밑둘레/5-0.3cm로 앞을 1.3cm 작게 설정, 앞․뒤목깊이는 목밑둘레/5-1.2cm, 3.5cm로 설정하였다. 뒤어깨경사는 뒤목높이에서 3.5cm를 올린 옆목점과 뒤목점의 기준수평선에서 뒤품선에 1.0cm를 내린 점을 연결하여 설정하였고, 앞어깨경사는 뒤목점의 기준수평선에서 앞품선에 4.3cm를 내린점과 0.4cm를 올린 옆목점을 연결하여 설정하였다. 뒤중심경사는 진동깊이의 1/3등분점과 뒤허리․엉덩이둘레선에서 2.1cm를 들어온 점을 연결하여 설정하였다. 앞가슴둘레는C/4+1.75(여유분)-1(앞뒤차)cm,뒤가슴둘레는C/4+1.75(여유분)+1(앞뒤차)+0.3(다트분)cm로 설정하였으며 앞허리둘레는 W/4+1.2(여유분)+2.2(다트분) cm,뒤허리둘레는W/4+1.2(여유분)+2.5(다트분)cm, 앞엉덩이둘레는 H/4+1.2(여유분)+0.2(앞뒤차)cm, 뒤엉덩이둘레는 H/4+1.2(여유분)-0.2(앞뒤차)cm로 설정하였고 앞처짐분량은 1.3 cm로 설정하였다. 유형2의 엉덩이옆길이, 앞․뒤품, 어깨길이는 유형1과 동일하게 설정하고, 등길이는 실측치-0.5cm, 진동깊이는 C/4-2.0cm, 앞․뒤목너비를 목밑둘레/5- 0.7cm로 설정하였다. 어깨다트길이 8.4cm, 다트량 1.4cm로 설정, 앞․뒤어깨경사는 처진어깨를 커버할 수 있도록 뒤어깨경사는 뒤목높이에서 3.0cm 올린 옆목점과 뒤목점의 기준수평선에서 뒤품선에 1.0cm를 내린 점을 연결하여 설정하였고, 앞어깨경사는 뒤목점의 기준수평선에서 앞품선에 3.7cm를 내린점과 1.4cm 올린 옆목점을 연결하여 설정하였다. 뒤중심경사는 뒤목점과 뒤허리․엉덩이둘레선에서 0.8cm 들어온 점을 연결하여 설정하였다. 앞가슴둘레는 C/4 +1.8(여유분)-1(앞뒤차)cm,뒤가슴둘레는C/4+1.8(여유분)+1(앞뒤차)+0.3(다트분)cm,앞허리둘레는W/4+1.25(여유분)-0.3+1.3(다트분)cm,뒤허리둘레는W/4+1.25(여유분)+0.3(앞뒤차)+2.9(다트분)cm,앞엉덩이둘레는H/4+0.95(여유분)-0.7(앞뒤차)cm,뒤엉덩이둘레는 H/4+0.95(여유분)+0.7(앞뒤차)cm로 설정하였다. 뒤허리다트의 양는 2.9cm, 앞처짐분량은 2.1cm로 설정하였다. 유형3의 엉덩이옆길이, 앞․뒤품, 어깨길이, 등길이는 유형1과 동일하게 설정하고, 진동깊이는 C/4-1.5cm, 앞․뒤목너비는 목밑둘레/5-1.2cm, 목밑둘레/5+0.7cm, 앞․뒤목깊이는 목밑둘레/5+0.7cm, 2.7cm로 설정하였다. 앞․뒤어깨경사는 유형2와 같이 처진어깨를 가진 체형을 커버할 수 있도록 뒤어깨경사는 뒤목높이에서 2.7cm를 올린 옆목점과 뒤목점의 기준수평선에서 뒤품선에 2.6cm를 내린 점을 연결하여 설정하였고, 앞어깨경사는 뒤목점의 기준수평선에서 앞품선에 4.2cm를 내린점과 1.1cm를 올린 옆목점을 연결하여 설정하였다.뒤중심경사는 뒤중심의 뒤품점과 뒤허리․엉덩이둘레선에서 1.3cm 들어온 점을 연결하여 설정하였다. 앞가슴둘레는C/4+1.65(여유분)-0.6(앞뒤차)cm,뒤가슴둘레는 C/4+1.65(여유분)+0.6(앞뒤차)+0.3(다트분)cm, 앞허리둘레는 W/4+1.5(여유분)+0.5(앞뒤차)cm, 뒤허리둘레는 W/4+1.5(여유분)-0.5(앞뒤차)+1.5(다트분)cm, 앞엉덩이둘레는 H/4+1.4(여유분)-0.3(앞뒤차)cm, 뒤엉덩이둘레는 H/4+ 1.4(여유분)+0.3(앞뒤차)cm로 설정하였다. 뒤허리다트량은 1.5cm로 설정하였으며 앞다트는 복부비만의 체형을 커버하기 위하여 설계하지 않았다. 앞처짐분량은 1.5cm로 설정하였다. 유형4의 엉덩이옆길이, 앞․뒤품, 어깨길이, 등길이는 유형1과 동일하게 설정하고, 등길이는 실측치-0.5cm, 진동깊이는 C/4-0.7cm로 설정, 앞․뒤목너비는 목밑둘레/5-0.1cm, 목밑둘레/5-1.0cm로 유형 중 앞목너비를 가장 크게 설정하였다. 어깨다트길이는 10.5cm, 다트량 2.0cm로 설정, 뒤어깨경사는 뒤목높이 3.2cm 올린 옆목점과 뒤목점의 기준수평선에서 뒤품선에 1.7cm를 내린 점을 연결하였고, 앞어깨경사는 뒤목점의 기준수평선에서 앞품선에 5.0cm를 내린 점과 옆목점을 연결하여 설정하였다. 뒤중심경사는 진동깊이의 1/4등분점과 뒤허리․뒤엉덩이둘레선에서 2.5cm를 들어온 점을 연결하여 설정하였다.앞가슴둘레는C/4+1.7(여유분)-0.25(앞뒤차)cm,뒤가슴둘레는C/4+1.7(여유분)+ 0.25(앞뒤차)+0.4(다트분)cm, 앞허리둘레는 W/4+1.45(여유분)+0.2(앞뒤차)+1.0(다트분)cm, 뒤허리둘레는W/4+1.45(여유분)-0.2(앞뒤차)+2.0(다트분)cm, 앞엉덩이둘레는 H/4+1.2(여유분)+0.3(앞뒤차)cm, 뒤엉덩이둘레는 H/4+1.2(여유분)- 0.3(앞뒤차)cm로 설정하였다. 앞처짐분량은 2.0cm로 설정하였다. 유형5의 엉덩이옆길이, 앞․뒤품, 어깨길이는 다른 유형과 동일하게 설정하고, 등길이는 실측치+0.5cm, 진동깊이는 C/4-1.8cm로 설정하고 앞․뒤목너비는 목밑둘레/5-1.4cm, 목밑둘레/5-0.9cm로 설정, 앞․뒤목깊이는 목밑둘레/5+ 1.2cm, 2.4cm로 목너비가 가장 좁고 목깊이가 가장 깊게 설정되었다. 어깨다트의 길이는 11.0cm, 다트량 2.9cm로 설정, 어깨경사는 솟은 체형을 커버할 수 있도록 뒤어깨경사는 뒤목높이에서 2.4cm를 올린 옆목점과 뒤목점의 기준수평선에서 뒤품선에 1.7cm를 내린 점을 연결, 앞어깨경사는 뒤목점의 기준수평선에서 앞품선에 4.7cm를 내린 점과 옆목점을 연결하여 설정하였다.뒤중심경사는 진동깊이의 1/2등분점과 뒤허리․엉덩이둘레선에서 0.9cm 들어온 점을 연결하여설정하였다.앞가슴둘레는C/4+1.7(여유분)-0.7(앞뒤차)cm,뒤가슴둘레는C/4+1.7(여유분)+0.7(앞뒤차)cm,앞허리둘레는W/4+1.4(여유분)-0.5(앞뒤차)+1.0(다트분)cm, 뒤허리둘레는 W/4+1.4(여유분)+0.5(앞뒤차)+1.7(다트분)cm,앞․뒤엉덩이둘레는 각각 H/4+1.1(여유분)cm로 설정하였다. 앞처짐분량은 1.0 cm로 설정하였다. 체형유형별 토르소원형의 설계법을 비교한 결과, 둘레항목의 여유분 및 앞뒤차, 어깨경사, 목너비, 다트량과 다트길이, 앞․뒤길이, 앞처짐 등의 항목에서 각 체형유형별 특징을 잘 반영하고 있는 것으로 나타났다. 허리둘레와 엉덩이둘레여유분은 유형3(복부비만체형)이 가장 많이 설정되었고, 엉덩이둘레여유분은 유형2(젖힌 체형)가 가장 적게 설정되었다. 허리둘레의 앞뒤차는 특히 유형5(숙인체형)에서 뒤가 앞보다 0.5cm 크게 설계되었다. 어깨경사는 유형5(솟은어깨)가 가장 완만하게, 유형2․유형3(처진어깨)의 어깨선경사가 급하게 설계되었다. 목너비는 목부위가 두꺼운 유형4가 가장 넓게 설계되었고 유형5가 가장 좁게 설계되었다. 앞의 옆목점은 유형2(젖힌체형)에서 가장 높게, 유형5(숙인체형)에서 가장 낮게 설계되었다. 어깨다트는 유형2(젖힌체형)가 가장 짧고 적게, 유형5(숙인체형)가 가장 길고 많이 설정되었으며 뒤허리다트량은 유형2(젖힌체형)가 가장 많고 유형5(숙인체형)가 가장 적게 설정되어 젖힌체형과 숙인체형의 특징을 반영하고 이를 커버할 수 있도록 설계되었다. 앞허리다트길이는 유형5(숙인체형)가 가장 짧고 유형4(휜체형)이 가장 길며 뒤중심다트량은 유형4(휜체형)가 가장 많이 설정되었다. 앞길이는 유형2(젖힌체형)가 가장 길고 뒤길이는 유형5(숙인체형)가 가장 길게 설계되었다. 앞처짐분량은 유형2(젖힌체형)이 가장 길게, 유형5(숙인체형)가 가장 짧게 설정되었다.

이상의 연구를 통해 성인 남성을 위한 타이트 핏 토르소원형 설계법을 제시함으로써 남성 의류제품 설계 시에 제시된 원형에 체형의 단점을 보완하고 장점을 증대시킬 수 있는 여유분을 추가하여 다양한 아이템과 디자인에 쉽게 적용할 수 있는 기초자료를 제공하였다는데 본 연구의 의의를 둔다. 급변하는 의류산업 환경에서 3차원 인체 형상 자료를 활용한 2차원 패턴 전개 및 가상 모델 생성, 가상착의 등을 실행해봄으로써 디지털 패션 산업 환경에서의 의류 생산과 유통구조의 변화에 대처하는 기초자료로 활용될 수 있을 것이라 기대한다.

|Tight-fitting clothes that place greater emphasis on the aesthetic expression of body shape and the functional aspect of clothing have recently gained popularity in menswear. In this sense, by designing clothes based on the application of patterns extracted through body shape analysis and body surface development through 3D body scan data, we will be able to enhance the fit of clothing to efficiently increase the level of satisfaction for fits. Also, as flat basic patterns with minimal ease are useful not only in designing tight-fitting clothing but also in adjusting the ease according to movements and functions to develop various items and designs, it is meaningful to conduct research on the this subject. In this regard, the purpose of this study is to develop tight-fitting torso patterns by body shape and present the method for designing the relevant patterns. To this end, 3D body shape data was used to classify body shapes according to the torso shapes of adult males aged between 20 and 75. Then, this study used the flat basic pattern of body surface gained by converting the 3D body shape of models representing each body shape. The research method is as follows. The study was conducted by using 3D body shape data from the '5th Research on National Standard Anthropometry'. This information was used to categorize 1,796 men aged between 20 and 75 and analyze their characteristics. This study selected models that represent different body shapes, and completed the body surface development drawing by converting 3D body shape data into 2D flat data. The flat basic pattern of body surface was completed after modifying and complementing the pattern based on fit assessment. The amount of ease formed in the flat basic pattern of body surface for making a tight-fitting torso pattern differed according to body type. After verifying the suitability of pattern modification and complementation through fitting assessment, the final tight-fitting torso pattern was developed according to the men’s body shape, and the method for designing the relevant pattern was presented. For data analysis, the program SPSSWIN Ver. 17.0 was used to calculate the mean and frequency and to implement factor analysis, cluster analysis, analysis of variance, and Duncan test.

The following presents the conclusions drawn from the results of this study. 1. By classifying body shape according to the torso shape of adult males, this study analyzed that the torso shape was composed of nine factors: ‘horizontal size of torso,’ ‘vertical size of body,’ ‘curve of torso and waist-abdomen flatness ratio,’ ‘length of torso,’ ‘shape of neck area,’ ‘degree of lateral curve,’ ‘difference between front and back interscye length,’ ‘shoulder armscye shape,’ and ‘chest flatness ratio.’ Based on the results of factor analysis, the torso shapes of adult males were classified into five types. Type 1 is called the “upright body with flat, curvy shape.” Subjects in this group are tall and have a short torso with large shoulders and an average shoulder slope. These men present a figure that is thin, flat, and the curviest among all body types. Type 2 is called the “curve sway back body type.” Like Type 1, subjects in this group have a curvy and relatively flat torso. These men have a sway back body type shape with a thin neck, sloping shoulders, and a thick armscye area. Type 3 is called the “flat, abdominally obese body.” With a cylindrical, flat body, this group has an upright figure with an obese abdomen, long top torso, short bottom torso, and sloping shoulders. Subjects in Type 4, called the “obese, crooked body,” have a slightly curvy, cylindrical, obese body with a short top torso, long bottom torso, and the widest torso of all body types. These men have a thick neck, average shoulders, and the characteristics of a crooked body type. Type 5 is called the “thick sway front body type.” Subjects in this group have the smallest torso, both horizontally and vertically, of all body types. They have a relatively flat cylindrical body and a flat torso, with a bent posture, bulging shoulders, a slender armscye area, and a thick chest. Also, the results of this study implied that men gradually transform into a flat, cylindrical body shape due to increased fat deposits in the body. 2. The flat basic pattern of body surface was designed through surface flattening of 3D shapes of models representing different body types that were selected by classifying the body shapes of adult males. As a result, the patterns of Types 1 and 2, which refer to subjects with a curvy waist, were formed to make the princess line that becomes the front waist dart naturally spread to the hip area when the patterns were combined in the front center. The characteristics of the curvy body are well expressed through the large amount of front-back waist darts. Types 3, 4, and 5, which include subjects with a relatively flat, cylindrical body, present a dart line composed of a closed front princess line. The characteristics of the cylindrical body shape are well reflected by the relatively fewer front-back waist darts when compared with the flat basic pattern of body surface for Types 1 and 2. In particular, as Types 3 and 4 have a flat body that is either obese or abdominally obese, they had fewer and shorter front waist darts than Type 5. The flat basic pattern of body surface for Type 2 well reflects the sway back body type; it has the fewest and shortest shoulder darts, and the largest and longest back waist darts. On the other hand, Type 5 has the largest and most shoulder darts, with the least amount of back waist darts, to effectively reflect the sway front body type in its flat basic pattern of body surface. 3. In designing tight-fitting torso patterns according to the body shape of adult males, a suitable amount of ease was given for each body shape in the flat basic pattern of body surface. The ease for chest, waist, and hip were set as 7%, 6%, and 5% for each body part in Type 1, 7%, 6%, and 4% in Type 2, 6.5%, 7%, and 6% in Type 3, 6.5%, 6.5%, and 5% in Type 4, and 7%, 6.5%, and 5% in Type 5. The least amount of ease for chest was presented in the flat, abdominally obese body(Type 3) and the obese, crooked body(Type 4). The largest amount of ease for waist was shown in the flat, abdominally obese body(Type 3). The sway back body type(Type 2) had the least amount of ease in the hip circumference, whereas the flat, abdominally obese body(Type 3) had the most ease. The front-back ease ratio for the chest, waist, and hip circumference was established as 50%:50%(front:back) for all body parts in Type 1, 70%:30%, 50%:50%, and 60%:40% in Type 2, 60%:40%, 70%:30%, and 60%:40% in Type 3, 40%:60%, 50%:50%, and 50%:50% in Type 4, and 40%:60%, 40%:60%, and 50%:50% in Type 5. The sway back body(Type 2) presented the highest front ease ratio for the chest circumference. On the other hand, the abdominally obese body(Type 3) had the highest front ease ratio for the waist circumference. The sway front body(Type 5) was given a large ease ratio for chest and waist circumferences. The data of this study was converted through a calculation formula in order to generalize the body-shape-specific torso patterns that have been constructed by giving an appropriate amount of ease according to the characteristics of each body shape in the flat basic pattern of body surface. In Type 1, actual measurement values were used for the length of the waist back and waist to hip, C/4cm was used for the scye depth, 0.4cm was added to the actual measurement values of the front and back interscye length, and 0.2cm was added to the actual measurement values of the shoulder length. The front-back neck width was calculated by base neck circumference/5-1.6cm and base neck circumference/5-0.3cm, subtracting 1.3cm in the front. The front-back neck depth was calculated by base neck circumference/5-1.2, 3.5cm. The back shoulder slope was established by connecting the point of the side neck that had been raised by 3.5cm in the back neck with the point that was pulled down 1.0cm in the back interscye line from the standard horizontal line of the back neck. The front shoulder slope was established by connecting the point that was pulled down 4.3cm in the front interscye line from the standard horizontal line of the back neck with the point of the side neck that was raised by 0.4cm. The back center slope was established by consecutively connecting the points pulled 2.1cm from the back waist-hip circumference at the one third point of armhole length. The following formulas wereused: frontchestcircumference=C/4+1.75(ease)-1(front-backdifference); back chest circumference=C/4+1.75(ease)+1 (front-back difference)+0.3(dart amount)cm; front waist circumference=W/4+1.2(ease)+2.2(dart amount)cm; back waist circumference=W/4+1.2(ease)+2.5(dart amount)cm; fronthip circumference =H/4+1.2(ease)+0.2(front-back difference)cm; backhip circumference= H/4+ 1.2(ease)-0.2(front -back difference)cm; front droop=1.3cm. In Type 2, the waist to hip length, front-back interscye length, and shoulder length were the same as that of Type 1. The waist back length was calculated by subtracting 0.5cm from the actual measurement value, C/4-2.0cm was used for scye depth, and the front-back neck width was calculated by base neck circumference/5-0.7cm. The shoulder dart length was 8.4cm and the dart length was 1.4cm. To complement sloping shoulders, the back shoulder slope was established by connecting the point of the side neck that had been raised 3.0cm from the back neck height with the point that was pulled down 1.0cm from the standard horizontal line in the back interscye line. The front shoulder slope was established by connecting the point that was pulled down 3.7cm from the standard horizontal line of the back neck in the front interscye line with the point of the side neck that was pulled up 1.4cm. The following formulas were used: front chest circum ference=C/4+1.8(ease)-1(front-back difference)cm; back chest circumference=C/4+1.8(ease)+1(front-back difference)+0.3(dart amount)cm; front waist circumference=W/4+1.25(ease)-0.3(front-back differe nce)+1.3(dart amount); back waist circumference=W/4+1.25(ease)+0.3(front- back difference)+2.9(dart amount)cm; front hip cir cumference=H/4+0.95 (ease)-0.7(front-back difference)cm; back hip circumference=H/4+0.95(ease) +0.7(front-back difference)cm.The length of the back waist dart was 2.9cm and the length of front droop was 2.1cm. In Type 3, the waist to hip length, front-back interscye length, waist back length and shoulder length were the same as that of Type 1. The scye depth of was C/4-1.5cm; the front-back neck width was calculated by neck base circumference/5-1.2cm and neck base circumference/5+0.7cm; and front-back neck depth was calculated by neck base circumference/5+ 0.7cm, 2.7cm. To complement body shapes with sloping shoulders(e.g.Type 2), the front-back shoulder slope was established by connecting the point of the side neck pulled up 2.7cm from the back neck and the point pulled down 2.6cm to the back intersyce line from the standard horizontal line of the back neck. The following formulas were used:front chest circumference =C/4+1.65(ease)-0.6(front-back difference)cm; back chest circumference=C/4 +1.65(ease)+0.6(front-back difference)+0.3(dart amount)cm; front waist circu -mference=W/4+1.5(ease)+0.5(front-backdifference)cm; back waist circumfe -rence=W/4+1.5(ease)-0.5(front-back difference)+1.5(dart amount)cm; front hip circumference=H/4+1.4(ease)-0.3(front-back different)cm; back hip circumference=H/4+1.4(ease)+0.3(front-back difference)cm. The dart length of the back waist was 1.5cm, and the front dart was not designed in order to complement body shapes with abdominal obesity. The length of front droop was 1.5cm. In Type 4, the waist to hip length, front-back interscye length, waist back length and shoulder length were the same as that of Type 1. C/4-0.7cm was used for scye depth. The front neck width was the largest among all types, with the front-back neck width calculated by neck base circumference/5-0.1cm and neck base circumference/5-1.0cm. The shoulder dart length was 10.5cm and the dart length was 2.0cm. The back shoulder slope was established by connecting the point of the side neck raised 3.2cm from the back neck with the point lowered 1.7cm in the back interscye line from the standard horizontal line of the back neck. The front shoulder slope was established by connecting the side neck point with the point pulled down 5.0cm in the front interscye line from the standard horizontal line of the back neck. The back center slope was established by consecutively connecting the points pulled 2.5cm from the back waist-hip circumference at the one fourth point of armhole length. The following formulas were used: front chest circumference=C/4+1.7(ease)-0.25(front- back difference)cm; back chest circumference=C/4+ 1.7(ease)+0.25(front- back difference)+0.3(dart amount)cm; front waist circumference=W/4+1.45 (ease)+0.2(front-back difference)+1.0(dart amount)cm, back waist circumfe -rence=W/4+1.45(ease)-0.2(front-back difference)+2.0(dart amount)cm; front hip circumference=H/4+1.2(ease)+0.3(front-back difference)cm, back hip circumference=H/4+1.2(ease)-0.3(front-back difference)cm. The length of front droop was 2.0cm. For Type 5, the waist to hip length, front-back interscye length, and shoulder length were the same as that of Type 1. The waist back length was calculated by adding 0.5cm from the actual measurement value, C/4-1.8cm was used for scye depth, and the front-back neck width was calculated by base neck circumference/5-1.4cm and base neck circumference/5-0.9cm. The neck area of Type 5 was narrowest and deepest with the front-back neck depth calculated by base neck circumference/5+1.2cm, 2.4cm. The shoulder dart length was 11.0cm and the dart length was 2.9cm. To complement rising shoulders, the back shoulder slope was established by connecting the point of the side neck pulled up 2.4cm in the back neck with the point raised 1.7cm in the back interscye line from the standard horizontal line of the side neck and back neck. The front shoulder slope was established by connecting the side neck point with the point pulled down 4.7cm in the front interscye line of the back neck. The following formulas were used: front chest circumference= C/4+1.7(ease)-0.7(front-back difference)cm; back chest circumference=C/4+ 1.7(ease)+0.7(front-back difference)cm; front waist circumference=W/4+1.4 (ease)-0.5(front-backdifference)+1.0(dartamount)cm; backwaist circumference=W/4+1.4(ease)+0.5(front-back difference)+1.7(dart amount)cm; front-back hip circumference= H/4+1.1(ease)cm. The length of front droop was 1.0cm. By comparing the design method of torso pattern by body shape, it was shown that the characteristics of each body shape were well reflected in measurement items such as the ease and front-back difference of circumference, shoulder slope, neck width, dart amount and length, front-back length, and front droop. Ease of waist and hip circumference was highest in Type 3(flat, abdominally obese body). Hip circumference ease was lowest in Type 2(sway back body type). The front-back difference of waist circumference was designed 0.5cm larger in the back than the front in Type 5(sway front body type). The shoulder slope was most gradual in Type 5(rising shoulders) and steepest in Types 2 and 3 (sagging shoulders). Type 4, which is the body shape with the thickest neck, was designed with the widest neck width, and the narrowest width was designed for Type 5. The side neck point in the front was highest in Type 2(sway back body type) and lowest in Type 5(sway front body type). Type 2(sway back body type) had the fewest and shortest shoulder darts and Type 5(sway front body type) had the biggest and most shoulder darts. The back waist darts are most in Type 2(sway back body type) and fewest in Type 5(sway front body type) to reflect and complement the characteristics of the body types. The front waist dart length was shortest in Type 5(sway front body type) and longest in Type 4 (crooked body type), which also had the most darts in the back center. The front length was longest in Type 2(sway back body type), and the back length was longest in Type 5(sway front body type). The front droop length was longest in Type 2(sway back body type) and shortest in Type 5 (sway front body type).

This study is significant in that it presented the method for designing a tight-fitting torso pattern for adult males, a method that adds ease to complement the weaknesses and emphasize the strengths of body shape in the pattern presented during the design of menswear. Also, this study provided elementary data for easily applying this method in various items and designs. By developing 2D patterns based on 3D body shape data, forming virtual models, and implementing virtual fitting in the rapidly changing environment of the apparel industry, this study can be used as elementary data for coping with changes in the clothing production and distribution structure of the digital fashion industry.; Tight-fitting clothes that place greater emphasis on the aesthetic expression of body shape and the functional aspect of clothing have recently gained popularity in menswear. In this sense, by designing clothes based on the application of patterns extracted through body shape analysis and body surface development through 3D body scan data, we will be able to enhance the fit of clothing to efficiently increase the level of satisfaction for fits. Also, as flat basic patterns with minimal ease are useful not only in designing tight-fitting clothing but also in adjusting the ease according to movements and functions to develop various items and designs, it is meaningful to conduct research on the this subject. In this regard, the purpose of this study is to develop tight-fitting torso patterns by body shape and present the method for designing the relevant patterns. To this end, 3D body shape data was used to classify body shapes according to the torso shapes of adult males aged between 20 and 75. Then, this study used the flat basic pattern of body surface gained by converting the 3D body shape of models representing each body shape. The research method is as follows. The study was conducted by using 3D body shape data from the '5th Research on National Standard Anthropometry'. This information was used to categorize 1,796 men aged between 20 and 75 and analyze their characteristics. This study selected models that represent different body shapes, and completed the body surface development drawing by converting 3D body shape data into 2D flat data. The flat basic pattern of body surface was completed after modifying and complementing the pattern based on fit assessment. The amount of ease formed in the flat basic pattern of body surface for making a tight-fitting torso pattern differed according to body type. After verifying the suitability of pattern modification and complementation through fitting assessment, the final tight-fitting torso pattern was developed according to the men’s body shape, and the method for designing the relevant pattern was presented. For data analysis, the program SPSSWIN Ver. 17.0 was used to calculate the mean and frequency and to implement factor analysis, cluster analysis, analysis of variance, and Duncan test.

The following presents the conclusions drawn from the results of this study. 1. By classifying body shape according to the torso shape of adult males, this study analyzed that the torso shape was composed of nine factors: ‘horizontal size of torso,’ ‘vertical size of body,’ ‘curve of torso and waist-abdomen flatness ratio,’ ‘length of torso,’ ‘shape of neck area,’ ‘degree of lateral curve,’ ‘difference between front and back interscye length,’ ‘shoulder armscye shape,’ and ‘chest flatness ratio.’ Based on the results of factor analysis, the torso shapes of adult males were classified into five types. Type 1 is called the “upright body with flat, curvy shape.” Subjects in this group are tall and have a short torso with large shoulders and an average shoulder slope. These men present a figure that is thin, flat, and the curviest among all body types. Type 2 is called the “curve sway back body type.” Like Type 1, subjects in this group have a curvy and relatively flat torso. These men have a sway back body type shape with a thin neck, sloping shoulders, and a thick armscye area. Type 3 is called the “flat, abdominally obese body.” With a cylindrical, flat body, this group has an upright figure with an obese abdomen, long top torso, short bottom torso, and sloping shoulders. Subjects in Type 4, called the “obese, crooked body,” have a slightly curvy, cylindrical, obese body with a short top torso, long bottom torso, and the widest torso of all body types. These men have a thick neck, average shoulders, and the characteristics of a crooked body type. Type 5 is called the “thick sway front body type.” Subjects in this group have the smallest torso, both horizontally and vertically, of all body types. They have a relatively flat cylindrical body and a flat torso, with a bent posture, bulging shoulders, a slender armscye area, and a thick chest. Also, the results of this study implied that men gradually transform into a flat, cylindrical body shape due to increased fat deposits in the body. 2. The flat basic pattern of body surface was designed through surface flattening of 3D shapes of models representing different body types that were selected by classifying the body shapes of adult males. As a result, the patterns of Types 1 and 2, which refer to subjects with a curvy waist, were formed to make the princess line that becomes the front waist dart naturally spread to the hip area when the patterns were combined in the front center. The characteristics of the curvy body are well expressed through the large amount of front-back waist darts. Types 3, 4, and 5, which include subjects with a relatively flat, cylindrical body, present a dart line composed of a closed front princess line. The characteristics of the cylindrical body shape are well reflected by the relatively fewer front-back waist darts when compared with the flat basic pattern of body surface for Types 1 and 2. In particular, as Types 3 and 4 have a flat body that is either obese or abdominally obese, they had fewer and shorter front waist darts than Type 5. The flat basic pattern of body surface for Type 2 well reflects the sway back body type